New Route "Evolution"

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New Route "Evolution"

Postby Fred » Sun Dec 05, 2004 6:23 pm

I'm not sure how this route got overlooked but it is a sweet sweet climb. The best route since Farewell to Arms. Solid rock and awesome moves. Fixed pro and more cleaning slated for spring 2005.


Evolution 5.11d 60'/TR/T
FA: F.Berube Dec. 2004

Found at the far left end of Upper Tier about 40ft before the trail turns into a scree slope. Start just right of a big hardwood below a roof and right facing corner (between Talsmasaca and Steel Your Face). Start by mantling a flake to get up to the right facing corner. Pull up through the layback corner and roof to the blank face above. Continue past technical face climbing to reach another small roof. Move past easier holds to finish at tree on top.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Guest » Sun Dec 05, 2004 9:27 pm

as with probably most lines on upper tier, this was done before. not overlooked. just undeveloped. pretty damn hard at the first roof. i thought there were some pretty big death blocks at the top too.
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Sorry, off topic.

Postby mitchleblanc » Sun Dec 05, 2004 10:50 pm

Anonymous wrote:as with probably most lines on upper tier, this was done before. not overlooked. just undeveloped. pretty damn hard at the first roof. i thought there were some pretty big death blocks at the top too.


Off topic, sorry. But: Wow, talk about abusing the guest post facilities... 4 posts, but too lazy to sign in?
Bouldering is a dish best served cold.
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block of death

Postby mathieu » Sun Dec 05, 2004 11:55 pm

ummm, I remember doing steel your face () and seing this sorta teetering block of choss to the left. I would maybe look at it a bit more closely
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Postby Fred » Mon Dec 06, 2004 8:47 am

no no no

this is super solid as I mentioned in my post and it's left of the choss that is left of Steel Your Face. There is no loose block. In fact, it's probably one of the most solid routes on Upper Tier. And I've never heard of anyone doing it before. So I'd say, yes, it was overlooked unless someone can confirm they've done it before without falls. Evolution it is.

It is not hard below the first roof (5.8). The crux is on the blank face from 20' to 40' on the route. Might even be like 5.12+ if you aren't 6ft tall. You must be thinking of something else.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby SHAWN » Mon Dec 06, 2004 10:01 pm

oops...the adventure race forums i post on automatically posts the senders name from the ip address. didn't notice this didn't do that. and it was only 3 posts mitch.
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who frigging cares....

Postby Guest » Wed Dec 08, 2004 3:28 pm

Hey, why the big worries about using the forum as a "Guest"? If you don't want it disable the feature. Other than that it's a free frigging country.
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Re: who friging cares....

Postby mitchleblanc » Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:38 pm

Anonymous wrote:Hey, why the big worries about using the forum as a "Guest"? If you don't want it disable the feature. Other than that it's a free friging country.


"frigging" takes two g's.

Don't know what to tell you man (or woman), it's just not good "forum etiquette" to post as a guest and not leave a name. It makes you lose credibility, and accountability.

Also, it's annoying to discuss something with someone when you don't know who it is (even just a name), and it's annoying when people are too lazy to sign in and make proper use of the excellent forum.

But he keeps the guest posting on, because not everyone sees it that way, which is fine I guess.
Bouldering is a dish best served cold.
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Postby Guest » Wed Dec 08, 2004 6:13 pm

there are some death blocks in that area... but i believe they're just right of steal your face...

right over head what could be a decent line... haven't had a chance to check it out closer than being on steal your face though...
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Postby Fred » Wed Dec 08, 2004 9:33 pm

Mitch,

I may be to blame for sum rong spellins. LOL

I mite a put sum wordz in not right in da word censor feeturre.

fur exampls:

frig Mitch. Ur such a silly sally. Don't you frigging have anything better to do than pick on sallys who aren't as perfect as you. Can you feel the frigging love mate? Peace out down under you silly sally.

btw. Are there two g's in silly sally? :D
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby mitchleblanc » Wed Dec 08, 2004 11:53 pm

Fred wrote:Mitch,

I may be to blame for sum rong spellins. LOL

I mite a put sum wordz in not right in da word censor feeturre.

fur exampls:

frig Mitch. Ur such a frigger. Don't you frigging have anything better to do than pick on friggers who aren't as perfect as you. Can you feel the frigging love mate? Peace out down under you frigger.

btw. Are there two g's in frigger? :D


Fred,

Can't you just stop being sarcastic for once? You know, I'm tired bringing good arguments and valid posts to the conversation, and you have to go and be a jerk. Can't we all just shut up and climb? Lay off the super arrogant attitude. You think you're so much better then everyone, but it's not true. You're arrogant. You should just shut up and climb, and stop being arrogant, and just shut up and climb.
Bouldering is a dish best served cold.
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Postby Matt Peck » Fri Dec 10, 2004 2:33 pm

:mrgreen: HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! hilarious.
Mmmmm that's good sarcasm.
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Postby Fred » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:55 am

Evolution has been downgraded to 5.11c grade confirmed by others.

I see I had graded it 5.11d here and 5.12a on the new routes list. 5.11c I think is the final grade. Some might argue 5.11b.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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