Cheekbone New Route

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Cheekbone New Route

Postby F Côté » Thu Oct 27, 2016 6:56 pm

Icon 5.13b/12d 25m /S(11)/R(2)
FA: F. Côté, E. Côté October 2016
An old toprope route. This line climbs the face between the second pitches of Cheekbone Corner and Strata Factor Direct. Belay from the same tree as for the second pitch of Cheekbone Corner Direct.
Moderate climbing up the face past some jugs and sharp crimps take you to a triangular hueco about half way up the route. Sit down and enjoy the exposure high above the Welsford valley. When you are well rested, crawl out onto the thin and technical face above.
13b: Original intended beta. After an initial move left, climb directly up the thin flaring seam until it ends. Continue to the protruding block and a short ramp to anchors.
12d: Same initial move left after the hueco but once you regain the seam, continue right, making a long span to gain a large foothold/small ledge. From here climb up the thin face, using sidepulls in the flaring seam, which is now to your left. Get your belayer to pay you out some slack if you want to avoid swinging into the hueco!
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F Côté
 
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Re: Cheekbone New Route

Postby F Côté » Fri Oct 28, 2016 8:44 pm

my previous post should actually look more like this:

Icon 5.12d 25m /S(11)/R(2)
FA: F. Côté, E. Côté October 2016
An old toprope route. This line climbs the face between the second pitches of Cheekbone Corner and Strata Factor Direct. Belay from the same tree as for the second pitch of Cheekbone Corner Direct.
Moderate climbing up the face past some jugs and sharp crimps take you to a triangular hueco about half way up the route. Sit down and enjoy the exposure high above the Welsford valley. When you are well rested, crawl out onto the thin and technical face above. Make an initial move left then back right to gain the seam. Make another long span right to a large foothold/small ledge then climb straight up the face using sidepulls in the flaring seam which is now to your left. Continue to the protruding bloc and a ramp to the anchor. Get your belayer to pay you out some slack if you want to avoid swinging into the hueco!
Direct Variation 5.13b: Same initial move left and back right after the hueco, but rather than making the long span to the right, climb directly up the flaring seam. Very fun and powerful movement
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