bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

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bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Paddlerx » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:13 am

Riding my bike there a while ago. theres a gravel pit up above the scout camp. in the gravel pit is some solid vertical. i noticed a series of shiney bolts.

anyone have anymore info?
grade/owner/etc?

anyone seen ice there during the dark months? (yep..dreaming of it already!)

don
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Postby mathieu » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:54 am

Are those bolts next to the nice grafity "Acoustic SIn RUles!!" or something like that?
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don't think so.

Postby Paddlerx » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:17 pm

the face is clear of graffiti from what i remember. small area stomped out of the grass/debris to make your start. very underutilized it seems.
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Postby thicks » Wed Sep 06, 2006 1:09 pm

just one line? any idea on access? could it be a part of that scout camp? How far from moncton?

sorry for answering questions with questions...
T
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location.

Postby Paddlerx » Wed Sep 06, 2006 2:01 pm

its beaumont. its directly across the river from hillsborough ice climbs. about a 20min drive from champlain place. then from there its a hike uphill on an atv road. stay left on the road (which bascially means stay straight) and it crests over a quarry. take the road down to the quarry. turn left and its more than obvious. there may be other lines as well. dunno.

its certainly not part of the scout facility i'd think.
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I own the Bolted routs in Beaumon

Postby motophotoman » Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:34 am

I have made the bolted routs in Beaumon Justin and Al Richard, there are about 3 bolted routs and whe are making about 5 more this year.. there is also great boldering in the rock pit and some more close to the water... once everything is done i will let everyone know the name of the climbs and rating
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any i

Postby Mountain_Marc » Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:19 pm

Paddlerx wrote:
anyone seen ice there during the dark months? (yep..dreaming of it already!)

don


No ice. Unless something has changed in the 6 years i've been gone.

From 96 to 2000 there was no ice when I took a look.
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ice

Postby motophotoman » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:11 am

from what i know there is some ice there but woudn't be that much maybe like 100ft or a little more but there is ice that i have seen lat year....
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Postby mathieu » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:32 am

we are talking vertical ice right? 100ft that's like ... (100*0.3048..)....30m, please let me know as well as others here where you found 100ft of climbable ice near moncton. Not to be skeptical but, I am a bit skeptical on the probability that a dozen ice climbers that have looked around SE New Brunswick for ice in the last 10 to 15 years have not found your 30+m of ice in the Beaumont/Rockport area.
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Postby martha » Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:28 am

a bit OT.. but Mat, I LOVE your signature.

hahhahaha good times!

Oh yes.. and where is this 100ft of ice? holy cow that is a full pitch worth!

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Postby thicks » Mon Oct 02, 2006 1:43 pm

ice, geeze, you guys and gals need to get off the ice(i mean crack), and get back on the topic of climbing and moncton. Or at least back onto the climbing. Weather was great this weekend, and January will come all too soon...

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The Beaumont

Postby Paddlerx » Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:54 pm

Went down to snoop out the climb i had referred to earlier and low and behold someone has quietly put up another bolted route....cept this new one is safe :-)

Pat me on the back. it was my signifigant birthday on sunday, i rode the cross bike down, met michelle and dog there. then we went up and found the sport climbs and i figured it was as good a time as any to do my first rock lead.

fun times!

Image

Image

and deep into a corner we also found this..which will require at least a visit in about 8months from now:

Image
[/img]
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Re: The Beaumont

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:20 pm

Paddlerx wrote:and deep into a corner we also found this..which will require at least a visit in about 8months from now:

Image
[/img]


:shock: Is that supposed to be late April fools!!!

It looks good to me. If its bonded why wait eight months?!?!?!?!?!
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Postby max » Mon Apr 02, 2007 4:25 pm

Dorchester Cape has 7 35m ice lines. I climbed there most on the winter, Rockport has 3 10-15m ice lines and Cape Maringouin has 12 lines ranging from 10-25m. The quality is excellent too.
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Postby martha » Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:10 pm

why are there bolts on that route with all those cracks around? is the rock chossy or something?
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sandstone

Postby Paddlerx » Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:12 am

well its sandstone, and in an old gravel pit. the quality when its good is pretty good...but mostly i think it'd be questionable. i didn't bolt the route so i can't really say though.

we found a great but short (30') flake up in the woods that is really solid, and a few cracks as well. however those will all be TR'ed personally.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Dom » Tue Dec 04, 2007 12:54 am

Because bolting cracks is not a crime.

I can't wait to try these routes. I tried the first one there wich was an 11a/b or something and ended up with a scab in my leg.

Don what would your grade the route you were on?
By the way Don good job on your first lead , haven't talked to you in forever
So much rock, so little time
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby martha » Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:56 am

Dombackpacker wrote:Because bolting cracks is not a crime.



No, it isn't a crime, but it is a bit against common ethics in NB.

If it happened in Welsford it would get chopped unless there was a valid reason... which is why I asked if the crack was choss or something.

Cheers.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby *Chris* » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:18 am

martha wrote:No, it isn't a crime, but it is a bit against common ethics in NB.

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true. Traditional NB ethic - yes. Common NB ethic - maybe?
martha wrote:If it happened in Welsford it would get chopped unless there was a valid reason... which is why I asked if the crack was choss or something

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true either. All that is bolted in NB is not necessarily choss.

Dombackpacker wrote: Bolting cracks is not a crime
Nice... definitely the most inflammatory statement on the NB page in a while. Take that noise over to the NS side... they love to have cyber-pissing matches over statements like that.

While we're at it... Peck's been looking for somewhere to dry-tool... and any chances it would accept a few pins?
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Paddlerx » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:31 am

yikes...people are getting all hissey in here. no need for that. this area is for the most part a wasteland. old abandoned gravel pit that had sandstone and conglomerate stone everywhere. tops of the pit is scary and loose shattered rock. even some of the bolted sections are way too scary looking (large shattered rocks that look separated from pretty much everything).

personally i'd have NO issue with anyone trying to develop that area in any way they could see fit. it'll never be a 'destination' in any way (ants, bugs, choss, hillbillies), so putting up some bolts to make an area that is inherently unsafe, safer...is in my opinion a great idea.

i can't comment on the difficulty or the potential anyways..i'm too frickin new at rock to make any valid statement. but i am patiently waiting for the ice to come in in there :-)
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby martha » Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:10 am

wow, I love how people read into things that aren't there when online...

I wasn't being hissy....

I had only asked a normal question and responded to the answer. I know nothing of the area which is why I asked. If it needs bolts to make it safe... that is fine. I stated that. Hense the question of the quality of the cracks etc.

*Chris* wrote:Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true. Traditional NB ethic - yes. Common NB ethic - maybe?


Chris.. you are right... it is a 'traditional ethic' in NB....not necessarily a common one. and I'm a traditional climber. :)

*Chris* wrote:Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true either. All that is bolted in NB is not necessarily choss.


I wasn't suggesting that all that is bolted in NB is choss... I was asking if the crack next to the bolt was 'choss' thus.. doesn't take good gear.. as that would warrant a bolt... Most bolted lines in NB are either great sport routes or need a bolt in a mixed line to make it safe. I'm just a traditionalist who doesn't want to see trad lines getting bolted. It is ugly, useless and sensless IN MY OPINION.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby *Chris* » Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:21 am

martha wrote: It is ugly, useless and sensless IN MY OPINION.

Just so we're clear Martha. I agree.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Paddlerx » Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:34 am

'hissey' wasn't what i meant, sorry. i meant 'worked up' or 'excited' or something like that. sorry for any confusion.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Dom » Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:01 am

Sorry was my statement might of been a little strong... Just a different point of view that's it.
I've been to a few places where they bolted cracks (i.e. Rumney, Skaha, Grassy lakes) and I thought it was nice, as it gave me to option of climbing them.
That beeing said, I think you should follow the crag trend. For instance I'm not suggesting bolting cracks in Cochrane lane because the general consensus there is bolt only what has no natural pro. Leave it that way.

But,that is Welsford ethics so would you go as far and say that global NB ethics exist? I don't think so...

As for Beaumont, like Don said it is an old place that people are trying to ''develop'' around Moncton. I see nothing wrong with bolting cracks there.
So much rock, so little time
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby martha » Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:14 am

Paddlerx wrote:'hissey' wasn't what i meant, sorry. i meant 'worked up' or 'excited' or something like that. sorry for any confusion.


no worries, but I wasn't worked up either.. just asking a question and stating my opinion.


I've also climbed in areas where cracks are bolted, and although it is fun to clip bolts since it is easier, I still don't agree with it. There were a large amount of routes in spain that were obvious cracks but had bolts. But mind you, fun to climb as you didn't have to fiddle with gear. (When in Rome) I don't agree with it though, and never will. Like I said, I'm a bit of a purist, and a trad climber at heart.

I"m not sure why on forums people get so riled up about things. My opinion is my opinion and nothing more. I tend to be rather opinionated about many things that others disagree with. I don't expect anyone to agree or conform (until one day when I am dictator of the world). I'm just looking for discussion.

cheers all. :) and yay for snow and ice!
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Matt Peck » Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:56 am

whew, glad I got onto this topic late, that bit about bolting cracks not being a crime woulda seen me all up in someone's grill.
Moreso because of the intent behind the remark. Im a sucker for blog baiting.
That link in the corner looks pretty good there Don, I might have to come take a peek. Let me know when it gets 10 cm thick, I'll come by with my Global Warming screws.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby Matt Peck » Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:59 am

I meant Ice. Dunno why I said link. Im only just starting my coffee....
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby chossmonkey » Thu Dec 06, 2007 8:55 am

When I first saw those ice pics I thought it looked really good. Looking at them again it looks like it might be really short.
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby STeveA » Thu Dec 06, 2007 9:27 am

(When in Rome)


Rome is in Italy not in Spain.
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
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Re: bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

Postby martha » Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:42 am

STeveA wrote:
(When in Rome)


Rome is in Italy not in Spain.


seriously Steve? Crap... all this time I've been thinking otherwise..... 8)
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