PEER PRESSURE

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PEER PRESSURE

Postby Fred » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:59 pm

I put up a new project this weekend. I'm not sure how this thing got overlooked all these years. The exposure is incredible and competes with any of the other heart thumpers in the area.

PEER PRESSURE 5.11+ PG 100'/M(1)/R(2)
FA: F.Berube Project
FFA: F.Berube Project

This route shares the first two thirds of "Sinus" in "Pooh Corner". When you reach the 'tombstone' flake and big roof over your right shoulder, traverse right onto a big sharp jug just below the roof. Lean back and look for a bolt below the roof (crux). Traverse out right under the roof on thrilling and exposed moves to gaing a vertical crack through the roof. Continue up the face above following two awesome parallel cracks and finish at bolt anchor on slab. It's an exact 30m rappel to the ground no more no less.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Fred » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:30 am

ITCHY BUM 5.8 150'/N/?
FFA: S.Adamson, P.W.Lloyd 1996
This climb is found at "Pooh Corner". Climb the crack in the corner 10' right of "Sinus".


I was going over this route in the Welsford New Routes descriptions and now I know exactly where this line is situated. It's just right of PEER PRESSURE and now you can finish at the same bolted anchor. The route follows the big corner between Sinus and Red Green. This layback corner would be quite nice if someone took the time to clean it. It would add alot to the area especialy since there is a new anchor and you can rap to the ground in one 30m rap.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Fred » Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:04 pm

good news and bad news

Good news is Peer Pressure may be even more awesome than we thought.

Bad news is John B did not flash or free it today. He aided the crux. Mind you the crack was a tad wet but still route is probably 5.12 something. I TR'd it again today and moves under the roof felt better to me today. Definitely do-able but intimidatingly hard and exposed.

It's a race for the FFA of this open project.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Fred
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