Serenity (new route)

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Serenity (new route)

Postby motanb » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:01 pm

John Bowles established anew sport route just left of "Baby Face"12d on the lower Dawn Wall.
I was working the bottom moves a few weeks ago and nearly killed my belayer- and myself for that matter!!- by pulling off a crucial hold which was a rest considering the thin holds.
Now that this hold is gone the route is much harder I believe. It is technical, thin crimp climbing on vert to slightly overhanging stone. The moves chew your fingertips; so only several attempts are possible a day.
I think were looking ata grade of 13b or so which would make Serenity one of Welsfords most challenging.

What do u think? :shock:
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Postby Fred » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:04 pm

I think its an estheticaly sick line. I tr'd it last year and could not do the bottom bit. I knew the top 2/3's would go but I knew I could never do the bottom.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Fred » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:06 pm

Tom, go try Peer Pressure. It's the lastest project. Open to anyone who wants to send it. It's ready to go. See new Welsford mini-guide.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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peer pressure

Postby motanb » Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:11 pm

I will Fred! It looks stunning!
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