Welsfords "best" 5.12

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Welsfords "best" 5.12

Postby motanb » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:54 am

So I'd like to know what people regard as the most aesthetic 5.12 in Welsford? Whatever may influence your choice- style, steepness etc.

For me, I choose "Perfect" 5.12b. Super hard climbing! Balance, footwork, flexibility, finger strength! This climb requires all of this and more! After the 3rd bolt it morphs into trad, and its kinda ballsy!! (so long as the pro is not preplaced) I like this thrilling aspect to the route.
Not to mention, the rock quality is prime as is the friction superb as well!

So for myself, I regard this route as one of Welsford's best 12's. :o
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Postby Fred » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:56 am

Farewell to Arms
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby martha » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:57 am

I am with Fred on Farewell to Arms.

I haven't been on Perfect, though I would like to get on it. Sounds totally my style!
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Postby NB_Gecko » Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:21 pm

I'm with Fred definetley "perfect", I love the view, and the moves, still haven't sent it. But there's so much versatility around it, that it still makes it fun. So you can climb hard, or climb at other levels with friends.
Perfect is my life
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Postby PeterA » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:34 pm

farewell to arms as well
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Postby Fred » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:25 pm

NB_Gecko wrote:I'm with Fred definetley "perfect"


uh?... I said 'Farewell to Arms' hehe :lol:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby NB_Gecko » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:23 pm

My bad I'm a little off, I'm REALLY with motanb.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
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Postby Joe » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:54 am

Do you really think Farewell to Arms is a 12? I redpointed it a few times, but I couldn't get Perfect. I also worked Lithium Crystal, and came close but not close enough. So I assumed Farewell was easier than those two, like 11.d-ish. But it gets my vote, because it's the only one I could do!
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Postby martha » Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:58 am

Yeah, I don't find Farewell to Arms THAT much harder than Montezumas Revenge.

11dish for Farewell makes more sense to me.
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Postby STeveA » Thu Nov 02, 2006 12:23 pm

I will vote for Farewell to Arms, not that I am prejudice. This climb can go really easy, felt like 5.6 when I finally redpointed it, but one misstep and well; Farewell to Arms.

Keep in mind that grades are for an onsight. Once you have dogged, top roped or seconded a route then you have to be careful about re-grading. There are many routes that once you have the moves wired, or you know about a 'trick' then the climb is suddenly much easier.
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Postby Anonymous » Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:10 am

just for variety i'll suggest Ra at sunnyside...

beauty route. sustained technical 5.11 moves up slightly forward leaning face... then the crux... again technical and sequency... very tricky route... but overall just a great sequence of moves. still awaiting a 2nd ascent...
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