Teenage Arete

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Teenage Arete

Postby motanb » Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:54 am

I'm curious to know what everyone thinks about the given grade of this route which is 5.12d.
Although it is a physical route it is quite short; really, it is more of a highly located boulder problem.
I question this grade of 12d; i believe it is more appropriate to call it 12a.
With that said, I enjoy the climb and regard it as a good route that deserves to be retro-bolted (the top section) in order to get more climbers on it.

Thomas
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Teenage Arete

Postby STeveA » Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:40 pm

This was graded 13a, but down graded when it was put in the guidebook (not sure why). Keep in mind that on lead the final piece is a nut that you have to place. The nut was not pre-placed, and hanging on while putting in a piece is quite interesting. The grade is based on someone leading it with no prior knowledge of the route. I will stick with the 13a grade until someone leads it and says otherwise. I climbed a 14a route in JTree that was 20' high. Short does not mean easy.

The bolts may still be good, just need some WD40 and hangers. Maybe Chris still has the hangers? Otherwise I have no problem with someone replacing the bolts.
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