Underutilized Welsford Classics?

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Underutilized Welsford Classics?

Postby john » Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:11 am

A list of Underutilized Welsford Classics, and in some cases not so classics:
Ice Scream
Les petit Phoques
free mustard ears
granite planet
chernoybl
grandpas demise
slippery when wet
curried recolection
ragged edge
telefunken
perfect
central scrutinizer gets climbed a bit rarely lead (very safe)
everything on upper dawn wall
whatever is on above down home wall

I bet half these routes havn't seen more than one or two ascents in years, you should try them sometime you are looking for something off the beaten path
john
 
Posts: 314
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:08 am
Location: Fred. NB

Postby *Chris* » Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:23 am

I went along with Burley and Adam late last fall to scope out above down home wall. Agreed that there were some sweet looking lines up there. We found on rapel, a number of career-ending, precariously balenced stones and detached flakes up there. Some were cleared but some still remain. I'd recommend caution if anyone is aspiring to do any groud-up onsight attempts this spring.
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby Fred » Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:34 pm

the list of wicked lines that never get climbed is endless.... Upper Tier is by far the most underutilized piece of cliff there. Apparently it's too much of a hike. Oh well... more for me. :)

My fav route that no one ever climbs is probably "Telefunken U47"

p.s. Ice Scream is an ice route. I think you mean Ice Creamed Cheese? (forget the name of it) far left of Lower Dawn.

p.p.s. Les Petits Phoques looks like a Chia pet right now.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby martha » Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:32 pm

IMO.. curried recollection should be hacked up and used for dry tooling.

that route is AWEFUL.

Ice Scream is a 5.8 R route on Blow Job Slab. Karel and Pete Lloyd put it up.

I LOVE Central Scrutinizer. nice line. I don't have the kiwis to lead it however. Maybe in my next life?

Dynamic Duo on Upper dawn is stellar but I think that sees quite a bit of traffic.

I don't think that the Attic sees much traffic either. and there are some sweet routes there.

I do like some stuff on Upper Tier.. but the hike is a drag with a baby on your back.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE Be still my Bleeding heart.

Some other unclimbed classics... :lol:

- to save the princess
- don visits owl
- death trap
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby mathieu » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:35 pm

What about the caving route up Gollums cave? When is the last time anybody wiggled their way up that guano hole?

What about overated climbs?
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Fred » Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:42 pm

I climbed the hole in Golums two years ago and it was awesome. Poor gear but fun climbing. Who was with me? anyone?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby mathieu » Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:02 pm

Fred wrote:I climbed the hole in Golums two years ago and it was awesome. Poor gear but fun climbing. Who was with me? anyone?


It should be a write of passage to any climbers.

The climb shouldn't be judged by its difficulty or exposure but also by its fun factor.
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Stef » Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:26 pm

Cara I agree with you about Currie Recollection. I have recollections of having no fun at all.

I always thought Coca-Cola would be a nice line if it saw more traffic. Decent rock and great exposure.

There is also an obscure and rarely climbed line called "It's way of life 5.4", very nice for the grade and never any traffic....

S.
Stef
 
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:55 am

Postby mathieu » Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:13 pm

Where is Coca Cola, is it in the same area as Jean?

I agree with John, Above Down Home Wall is definetely unexplored/unclimbed.
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Stef » Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:54 pm

Yup, you climb the first pitch of Jean, and the trend right from the belay.
Stef
 
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:55 am

Postby PaulB » Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:06 pm

Fred wrote:Upper Tier is by far the most underutilized piece of cliff there.

That's too bad. Most of the routes up there are fun, with a nice mix of sport and trad.

Fred wrote:My fav route that no one ever climbs is probably "Telefunken U47"

Juggler to Telefunken to Joint Venture to Witches' is a good outing.

Fred wrote:I think you mean Ice Creamed Cheese? (forget the name of it) far left of Lower Dawn.

Lichen Cream Cheese, perhaps.
PaulB
 
Posts: 107
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:46 pm
Location: North Vancouver, BC

Postby Matt Peck » Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:42 pm

Y'all trying to get a rise out of posting Save the Princesses?
Me and some C4 are gonna visit that particular climb this spring. Got some unfinished business. And I don't mean the cams.
You can't take the sky from me.
User avatar
Matt Peck
 
Posts: 574
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:47 pm
Location: Nova Scotia

Postby martha » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:15 am

Matt Peck wrote:Y'all trying to get a rise out of posting Save the Princesses?
Me and some C4 are gonna visit that particular climb this spring. Got some unfinished business. And I don't mean the cams.


It was Mike Fellows who told Fred and I it was the best route on Upper Tier. we went to check it out, and bailed just before the block that you pulled off. We called Mike that night and thanked him for sending us on that epic. He just laughed.

couldn't believe he was able to tell us with a straight face that it was the best route around.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

under-appreciated routes...

Postby motanb » Tue Mar 27, 2007 1:24 pm

Well I don't know about anyone else, but I can't believe no one has yet to mention ( so I will;-p)- 847 located on Joe's Attic! What a great climb! Longish, gymnastic, with great stone and beautiful views. Not to mention a clip up; aka no balls needed.
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB

Classics

Postby STeveA » Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:43 pm

Try Escape Hatch for an interesting neglected classic (assuming classic means old) route. Since you are in the same area try Ride a cock horse.
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
User avatar
STeveA
 
Posts: 570
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:07 am

Re: Classics

Postby mathieu » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:24 pm

STeveA wrote:Try Escape Hatch for an interesting neglected classic (assuming classic means old) route. Since you are in the same area try Ride a cock horse.


I'll second Ride a Cock Horse. Definatly worth the trip up there.
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 48 guests