friday at the lane

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friday at the lane

Postby motanb » Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:43 pm

Hey friends,

I'm going to the lane this friday with Ryan et al...Its been a few weeks since I've been at our grag ;and fresh back from a week in new hampshire:I'm stoked to return home to welsford. I'm thinking of trying Peer Pressure; such a sweet line. Is there anyone interested in joining me for the climb?

Thomas 8)
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
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Re: friday at the lane

Postby Fred » Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:36 pm

I'd love to get on Peer Pressure. Unfortunately, Pooh Corner is part of the Peregrin closure. We'll have to wait for fall.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: friday at the lane

Postby motanb » Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:27 pm

LOL... I realized after I had posted that its in the area!! :oops: So I'll have to wait.... no worries. I think I'll get on my projent on upper dawn wall "Feeling it Real" 5.12ish I think. Its just to the right of dynamic duo. I've cleaned and rehearsed it a few times on tr a couple years back but i think it'll need a bolt maybe two??? Never-the-less, It's a great technical face climb.
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
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Location: Saint John, NB

Re: friday at the lane

Postby Fred » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:44 pm

cool. Is that the lightning bolt route?

I have "The Crush" on my list of to-do.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: friday at the lane

Postby motanb » Thu Jul 26, 2007 6:42 pm

what do you mean by "lightning bolt route? Yeah, the crush is very cool and worth climbing; the moves and style are very unique to anything else in welsford. It protects well too.
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB

Re: friday at the lane

Postby Fred » Thu Jul 26, 2007 7:08 pm

Between Ziggy Piggy and Whiter Shade there is a thin flaring vertical crack system that look like a big lightning bolt. Duno if it would take gear but looks wicked nice.

what size cams for The Crush?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: friday at the lane

Postby motanb » Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:50 pm

I know what you mean now. the crush takes medium to largew cams like red,gold, and blue bd cams wouls all be used. Also, if you had a huge cam like a massive bd off-width cam that too would actually be useful for the armbar crack above the overhanging section. There is also small nut placements above the overhang as well.
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB


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