The Nose Butress

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The Nose Butress

Postby *Chris* » Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:04 pm

I looked at Steve A's Welsford archive site today for the first time and came across a topo which peaked my curiosity. It is apparently from the first edition guidebook for N.B. In it, several prominent features of the cochrane lane landscape go by different (albeit obvious) names. Cheekbone corner is a good example. I did not know that it was previously referred to as 'the Nose Buttress'. A few others are also obvious.

Now I know that some feel that an FFA of an existing line gives them the right to give it a new name but I'd say that renaming an entire formation/area is something different altogether. So how did this come about? Was this a case of a gradual change in preference of the general community as it's members changed or is there a more interesting storey behind the fate of the Nose Buttress?
cbell_sketch.jpg
Topo from Steve A's site.
cbell_sketch.jpg (65.23 KiB) Viewed 1763 times
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby STeveA » Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:37 am

I think this has been a gradual change over the years, and reflects the increase in routes and climbers. You will notice that The Cirque has been replaced by Burrough's Wall. Originally the farthest climb over by Gollum's Cave area was The Ejaculator, however there are a couple of routes on the face to the right of it and it was given its own name. The climbs of The Cirque have basically fallen into obscurity.

The L-shape used to mean everything from what is now Pyramid Wall over to Snakepeel. However as climbs were added, each little area recieved its own name, Joe's Garage, Simpson Wall, Dawn Wall etc.

The Nose butress used to consist of Cheekbone Corner, Snot and Sinus. However once again the number of routes has grown and the areas received unique names.

I believe some of this change was evolution, and some was simply because new climbers were probably not aware of the old names. However, maybe it was actually a conspiracy. Maybe things like the mispelling of Pyramid (Pyramad) Wall were done on purpose with a mysterious alterior motive!!!!
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby martha » Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:38 am

I suspect that it was a gradual change that came about by people calling the area 'Cheekbone corner' after the route.

Perhaps it was a "I'm going to do 'cheekbone corner' today".. and then, "I'm going to Cheekbone corner today"
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby martha » Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:40 am

STeveA wrote: However, maybe it was actually a conspiracy. Maybe things like the mispelling of Pyramid (Pyramad) Wall were done on purpose with a mysterious alterior motive!!!!


That could simply be that many climbers can't spell!
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby *Chris* » Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:00 am

Ok... I thought that was the case. It's interesting that as the area was subdivided into smaller faces and features that some of the original names were lost altogether. Thanks for the history lesson.
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby Fred » Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:16 pm

"Snakepeel" was originaly called "Momentary Lapse of Grace"
"Pharaoh Fawcet" was originaly called "Gastrocolic Reflex" (spell?)
"Upper Tier" was originaly called "Pete and Steve's Most Excellent Sport Climbing Wall"

Seveveral routes in Welsford have been cleaned, climbed, named and even bolted not knowing that the climb had already been done. Record keeping over the years has been less than perfect for many obvious reasons.
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby STeveA » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:54 am

I still think it is more likely a giant conspiracy!!!!!
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby Fred » Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:57 am

I agree Steve. Some countries get renamed this way you know... :wink:
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby martha » Thu Aug 02, 2007 4:07 pm

Fred wrote:I agree Steve. Some countries get renamed this way you know... :wink:



oh lord.....this coming from the most paranoid person I know!!!!! Don't edge him on Steve!!! really!!!!
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby Fred » Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:16 pm

Hey Steve... I was checking out some of the old reference material on your site and came accross a list of recommended routes. One that caught my curriosity was "Cantilever 5.4". Do you recall what this route is?
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Re: The Nose Butress

Postby STeveA » Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:22 pm

That is at Chamcook Mountain which I believe is now called Greenlaw. I will look up the description and post it to see if you can recognise the route. It has been over 20 years since I was last there.
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