A route, or not a route, that is the question.

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A route, or not a route, that is the question.

Postby Matt Peck » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:49 am

Hey all, I played on a line in Joes Garage the other day, and I was
curious as to it's history. It starts between Shredded wheat and
Pizza, on that featurless piece of rock below the roof. It's about
six feet from either route. The first move is a big reach for a jug that is hard to see from the ground,
and then you haul up, through the small roof, and up onto the face without
going right or left for holds used by the other climbs. The route
then goes through the slabby area above via a slopey sidepull rail and
through a ledge before slabbing to the end at the big hemlock(?) on the
edge of the good part of the granite belay ledge at the top of that part of Joes.
Felt about 5.7 R, Im sure it's been toproped, but has it ever been
lead? I lead it last weekend and the gear is a little iffy, but
there. Two cams below the slab and then a slung tree, with possibly a groundfall between your second piece and the ledge as it runs out a bit
two thirds of the way. Dirty as hell, but it had some
thought-provolking moves. Any input?
You can't take the sky from me.
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Matt Peck
 
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Re: A route, or not a route, that is the question.

Postby Richard Eh! » Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:33 pm

Yup! Led it on father's day last year......I'd say "R" for gear.
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
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