New Route Down Home Wall

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

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New Route Down Home Wall

Postby cory » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:59 pm

Bag-o-Nuts 5.8 R 80'/M/T
FFA Cory Goodman, Luaurent Couret?? April 27/08

This climb follows the shallow finger crack 5' left of Tit For Tat, 5' right of Baby Crack. Thin small nut placments and some runouts make it R, but a good set of microcams would make it PG or maybe even G. I don't want to sandbag on the protection factor, so it's R for now, but this may change with confirmation.

There is still a bit of dirt in the crack and debris on the surface, but it will improve with traffic.
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Re: New Route Down Home Wall

Postby Fred » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:56 pm

is it mixed (M) or natural (N) gear?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Route Down Home Wall

Postby cory » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:00 pm

sorry about that.. N -exclusively natural gear
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Re: New Route Down Home Wall

Postby mathieu » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:30 pm

Talk about squeazing the climbs out of cochrane lane. 5 feet between each of the climb.
cory wrote:Bag-o-Nuts 5.8 R 80'/M/T
5' left of Tit For Tat, 5' right of Baby Crack.




As always, the trad climbers disclaimer...
cory wrote:There is still a bit of dirt in the crack and debris on the surface, but it will improve with traffic.



On another note, Cory what the heck are you doing with a rope?
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Re: New Route Down Home Wall

Postby cory » Thu May 01, 2008 4:00 pm

Actually, I just tied a few shoe laces together from old trad shoes. (I only wear slippers, being a boulderer and all.)

As for
squeazing the climbs out of cochrane lane

This is the natural line that hasn't been claimed (if climbed at all). To quote Fred in the guidbook "Oddly, the nice obvious vertical cracks on this wall are not the established routes listed below.". I guess you could say I'm fixing the oversight of S.Adamson, and R.Burton :P

Cheers
C
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Re: New Route Down Home Wall

Postby cory » Sun May 18, 2008 11:55 am

Laurrent JONART....i'm an idiot
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