Cape Spencer Bouldering

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Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby Fred » Tue May 27, 2008 12:17 pm

Tom: here is a pick of Goodman climbing the back of the House boulder. The line that he is on goes at about V1-V2 and starts on jugs just down and left of him. There is another problem V2 ish to his right just before the squeez chimney which has also been climbed. Then there are a variety of problems that were climbed to the right some more.
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I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby motanb » Wed May 28, 2008 11:02 am

That is nice, but not what i was attempting to describe. i think the crack i'm talking of is to the left of this? the crack i am thinking of would be a "crazy" sans rope ascent (crippling); even with crash pads.
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby Fred » Wed May 28, 2008 11:48 am

yup. I know the crack you are talking about and it's definitely a full on route. Looks pretty tough. However, you also mentioned some juggy routes on the back of the House boulder and didn't know if this was the same as the photo you see here.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby granite_grrl » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:35 pm

Hmm, that looks pretty yummy. What kind of rock it it?
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby martha » Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:04 pm

The sharp kind. haha.

No, actually it isn't that bad. There are a few problems with very sharp holds, but all in all it is pretty good, and considering it is seaside, there are no bugs this time of year, so a fun alternative for an afternoon of climbing

some find it too sharp to climb on...but there are a number of Nancy's around too. hehe. ;) Don't have a clue what the rock is though....
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby Murph » Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:00 pm

martha wrote:The sharp kind. haha.

No, actually it isn't that bad. There are a few problems with very sharp holds, but all in all it is pretty good, and considering it is seaside, there are no bugs this time of year, so a fun alternative for an afternoon of climbing

some find it too sharp to climb on...but there are a number of Nancy's around too. hehe. ;) Don't have a clue what the rock is though....

Is it "sharp....really sharp!" or just kinda sharp...
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby cory » Mon Jun 16, 2008 6:05 pm

It's some sort of low quality granite, me thinks.

It is not sharp in comparison to NS. In fact some is quite polished and slick. All-in-all it's sharpness range is similar to Cochrane Lane. Anyone who says otherwise is a sissy that would be more content getting a manicure than sending fun lines in an awesome setting.
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby motanb » Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:18 am

I agreee with Cory G. It is pobably the best place to boulder in new brunswick and it is a really beautiful spot! the rock is not exceptionally sharp..lets say "crisp", but not sharp.. to the touch;-)
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby Adam » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:35 pm

it's not so much that the rock is sharp by nature, but there are more than a few holds that will slice your hand open if you're not careful... in that respect i'd say it's sharper than cochrane lane

or so says the sissy...
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Re: Cape Spencer Bouldering

Postby *Chris* » Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:06 pm

I agree with Adam... the texture isn't sharp... but the features are. I remember bouldering there a few years ago with 'Mike-the-German'. In less than an hour both of his hands were bleeding well enough to pack it in for the day. That said, it's a very nice spot... just bring tape.
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