Looking for Advice on Welsford

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Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby gwa » Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:20 pm

Hey,
I was hoping some climbers out there with time to kill at their desks wouldn't mind passing along some route recommendations for Welsford.

My partner and I have three days to climb, a sport rack, and are happy top-roping trad routes that are sweet. We're looking for 5.9-5.10 grades.

We've got a guide book and I was there a couple years ago but don't have a good memory of the routes I climbed. I've never been to Sunnyside and it sounds wicked- any routes I should do there?

thanks,
Graham
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby Burley » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:23 am

Sport draws only?

If it were me I'd just go to Sunnyside and Greenlaw if you are looking for sport lines in that range. Both are 90% sport crags. Get a guidebook and just get on everything... start with the three star routes. There are some new lines in each spot so the guide book will seem wacked... especially in Sunnyside.

Since you have 3 days you could spend one Chochrane lane... beauty of a spot, but not much for concentrated sport lines... lots of wicked trad though.
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby martha » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:29 am

Also, please respect the Peregrine Falcon Closure. A number of walls that offer great top roping of some classic Trad lines are closed due to this at the moment. There is information in some other threads.

I agree with Burley though. You are best to go to St. Andrews and Sunnyside if you aren't leading any trad though you could spend an afternoon at Upper Tier and top rope a few lines on the Pryamid and at Waterfall Wall. There are 2 sport routes in your range at Waterfall wall and you could walk around and set up the classic line of 'Waterfall Layback' to top rope. Though gear would be nice for directionals on that route.

I'm sure that there will be others around to help you out when you are there.

Also, do you mind me asking where you picked up the guidebook? Was it a MEC for you?
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby *Chris* » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:36 am

My recommendations for awesome moderate sport (or moderately awesome sport) climbing

@ Cochrane Ln.
Mr. Torpedo 5.9
Most Unprecedented 5.10a
Joint Venture 5.10? (feels hard to me)
Drytoolers will be Prosecuted 5.10b/c
Leviathan 5.11
Biohazard 5.11 (not your typical Welsford technique)

@ Sunnyside
Stairway to Heaven 5.7
Covalence 5.8
All Hail 5.10a
Quantum Theory 5.10b

There are certainly others but I don't have a guidebook in front of me and I'd hate to throw you off course by getting a name wrong.
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby *Chris* » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:45 am

I'll just add that if you do go to Waterfall Wall definately set a TR on Waterfall Layback. It's a super classic with an easy hike around to the top. Directionals are not absolutely necessary so don't let that scare you off.
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby Murph » Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:47 am

Burley wrote:There are some new lines in each spot so the guide book will seem wacked... especially in Sunnyside.

For new lines in Sunnyside, you can check out Fred's Beta-source page
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby gwa » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:52 pm

Hey,
Thanks everyone for your advice. Great weather, great climbing. I can't wait to come back.

Chris, I hit up monsieur torpedo and drytooler will be prosecuted, awesome routes. Waterfall Layback was fun.

Take it easy,
Graham
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Re: Looking for Advice on Welsford

Postby Fred » Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:44 am

sweet!

I love hearing that.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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