New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

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New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Burley » Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:10 am

The crack was there so I climbed it... I thought whoever did the cleaning must have got on the thing, but as I got into it I didn't see any chalk... so if somone is going back to do it and sees some chalk it is mine... sorry. And no i didn't use the bolts. And no I'm not asking anyone to chop them.

After the start I traversed right a bit and got one some less stable rock then finished up the last diagonal crack at the top of one of the routes on the right above the ramp... on coming rain maybe?

The new start felt like 5.7... if you are less flexible than me (can't see how that is possible) it'll be a bit harder. Even the traverse was fun. If you don't have any trouble with the crack on the left you won't have any trouble with this one.

Nice variation to pass the moonshine. If someone has the motivation I think a route could possibly go staight up right of pass the moonshine with some cleaning., but maybe not... it was too dirty for me once I got into... so I went a bit more to the right.
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Joe » Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:59 am

Burley, I posted the below a while ago. Don't you read this stuff? As you can see, I thought it was a 5.9 lead with the thin gear, but I could see it being 5.8ish. I agree it could go up and to the right, but it looked dirty and blocky so I moved left to Moonshine. Steve's bolted route is separate and also joins Moonshine.

Post subject: New route by Pyramid, and UNB R&I Stickers? Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 9:34 am

I lead a new crack climb to the right of Pass the Moonshine and to the right of the bolted roof climb by Steve (5.10??? Yeah right!). The new route is "Roundup" 5.9. Follow thin crack in left-facing dihedrel for 15', then join onto Moonshine. And don't use those friggin bolts!
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Adam » Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:14 am

i still don't see the point of those bolts. i say chop em :twisted:
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Burley » Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:42 am

Sorry, no I didn't read that. I just like getting on new to me routes... so thanks for putting it up.

Cool variation and glad you cleaned it. Funny that none of us noticed the cleaning until last night... only in that area one other time since the end of May.

Like I said, I was positive the cleaner would have lead it right away given the traffic in the area.

I think you could continue the line right of pass the moonshine with some cleaning. Anyone want to clean it?

I climbed up to the blocks you mentioned and they are not solid and would have to go... I down climbed from there and went a couple feet futher right then met with on coming rain as I said.

I would go with 5.8. I usually find 5.9 to be a pretty hard onsight. Once you get that left foot up from the start she is all over. Rosie thought 5.8 or 5.7. No need to use the bolts or piton... the gear is adequate.

The face above looks fun... I hope someone cleans it up.

Thanks Joe
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Fred » Fri Jul 04, 2008 10:40 am

Is that tree gone now?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby Burley » Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:17 am

Fred,

The route was "cleaned".

Tree must have fallen over in late spring and then someone cleaned the stump with saw.
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Re: New Variation Beside Pass the Moonshine?

Postby PeterA » Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:01 pm

Burley wrote:Nice variation to pass the moonshine. If someone has the motivation I think a route could possibly go staight up right of pass the moonshine with some cleaning., but maybe not... it was too dirty for me once I got into... so I went a bit more to the right.


Our original intent with Anubis was to continue it all the way up, but we never got around to it. Who knows though? :wink:

-PJ
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