Best crack in NB

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Best crack in NB

Postby STeveA » Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:51 pm

Jon soloed the best crack in New Brunswick this past weekend.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:39 am

i think your camera is sideways...
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:43 am

OMG!! :shock:

Who drilled a pocket route right next to the best crack evar?!?!?!?





If he wasn't flat against the rock it might have actually looked real.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:49 am

I think it's an old quarry.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:51 am

looks like it would be an AMAZING first trad lead lol
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby martha » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:23 am

ah yes, look at how gravity is pulling on his shirt and pants...

Oh Steve.. you trickster you. ;)
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:18 am

martha wrote:ah yes, look at how gravity is pulling on his shirt and pants...

Oh, give him a a break, we've all had our bad gravity days. :mrgreen:
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:49 pm

Is this better?
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:55 pm

flower now i'm convinced! good on ya John! lol
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:01 pm

I feel stupid asking the question but I'll be the leader as I'm sure others are wondering.

Is this a hoax? crack is flat on the ground right?

The reason I ask is because I remember Jon A talking about this beautiful splitter crack in some rock quarry near Saint John. Thus, I believed the photo when I saw it.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:07 pm

This is the area where the splitter crack is located. I am not sure if this is the splitter crack. It is an old quarry.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby *Chris* » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:39 pm

Turtle mt?
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:42 pm

I still don't know if it's a staged shot or a real vertical crack.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:45 pm

It is a quarry near Browns Flat. I have not been there, only saw the pictures from Jon and PJ. The granite looks gorgeous.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Adam » Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:19 am

that looks pretty fun! in a tendon popping sorta way... :roll:
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby granite_grrl » Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:58 am

trad_reborn wrote:that looks pretty fun! in a tendon popping sorta way... :roll:

Honestly....that's the same kinda thing I was thinking.

My tendons are in rough shape right now. They need a winter of ice climbing to get them to recover.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Joe » Tue Aug 12, 2008 2:45 pm

Oh to be 16 again... these days I pull a tendon just picking my nose...
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby martha » Tue Aug 12, 2008 2:54 pm

Joe wrote:Oh to be 16 again... these days I pull a tendon just picking my nose...


HA!
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Stacey » Tue Aug 12, 2008 3:17 pm

WOW
what a great shot!

:-)
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Andrew » Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:03 pm

Regardless of the validity of that crack solo photo, I'd love to go check out that granite quarry. COuld someone email me with directions?

F 2 E 8 @ hotmail dot com

:)
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby STeveA » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:58 am

Jon and Peter are both in New Hampshire at the present, but when they get back I will get them to post directions.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Greg » Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:36 am

Fred wrote:I think it's an old quarry.


Yup, about 3 k north of Evandale on highway 102.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby cory » Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:43 pm

yeah, that's the spot... you can't miss it from the road. It looks spectacular. Best graninte perhaps anywhere, very dense and fine cristals. It's been quarried for monument work because it shows phenominal detail when carved. There are a handfull of one or two-move wonders on irregulary piled shaped that fractured in non-square blocks. The exposed faces have deep (but not deep enough) pools of stagnant water at their base most of the year.

To give you an indication of the density of this stuff the drilled holes are often 2" diamter and 4" on centre, so from cross-section there are more smooth curves than fractured face. Lots of parallel flaring pinches up approximately vertical faces 6-20', usually vertical, but horizontal or as pockets in places.

I've explored in detail about 2/3 of that entire granite formation hiking many Km's through the woods, up streams, and along abandoned quarry roads. Found only a couple of worthwhile things but very scattered.

Also a warning. That quarry is still active and they do blast there on a regular basis. Don't be stupid.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Greg » Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:38 pm

cory wrote:yeah, that's the spot... you can't miss it from the road. It looks spectacular. Best graninte perhaps anywhere, very dense and fine cristals. It's been quarried for monument work because it shows phenominal detail when carved. There are a handfull of one or two-move wonders on irregulary piled shaped that fractured in non-square blocks. The exposed faces have deep (but not deep enough) pools of stagnant water at their base most of the year.

To give you an indication of the density of this stuff the drilled holes are often 2" diamter and 4" on centre, so from cross-section there are more smooth curves than fractured face. Lots of parallel flaring pinches up approximately vertical faces 6-20', usually vertical, but horizontal or as pockets in places.

I've explored in detail about 2/3 of that entire granite formation hiking many Km's through the woods, up streams, and along abandoned quarry roads. Found only a couple of worthwhile things but very scattered.

Also a warning. That quarry is still active and they do blast there on a regular basis. Don't be stupid.


We poked around there a bit last fall. Looked at the quarry and just south of there. You are right - the granite is of very high quality. Did you look around near Fowler Lake? My topos show a couple of hills on either side of there.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Dom » Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:08 pm

Greg wrote:
Fred wrote:I think it's an old quarry.


Yup, about 3 k north of Evandale on highway 102.


Old topic, new question- Is this the quarry that is directly on the side of the Hwy 102? (I'm talking like 10 seconds approach here)

If it is I went there this Winter and I'd like to go again- looks like really good granite and a bunch (20ish) of cool problems.

I can' t remember if it was close to Evandale or not hence my question.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Greg » Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:38 pm

Dom wrote:
Greg wrote:
Fred wrote:I think it's an old quarry.


Yup, about 3 k north of Evandale on highway 102.


Old topic, new question- Is this the quarry that is directly on the side of the Hwy 102? (I'm talking like 10 seconds approach here)

If it is I went there this Winter and I'd like to go again- looks like really good granite and a bunch (20ish) of cool problems.

I can' t remember if it was close to Evandale or not hence my question.

Yup Dom that's the one. As you can see from Steve's pics the quality of the granite is very high. Not sure how much you looked around there but there are some really nice problems hiding in the bushes besides the more obvious ones.
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Dom » Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:39 pm

With today's nice weather, I climbed at the Evandale quarry. Gotta say the granite there is immaculate, especially for a quarry. And the faces are tall too!
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Stacey » Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:16 pm

sweet spot eh?
now that pic would be gorgeous without all those footprints :P
hehe - just teasing!
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Re: Best crack in NB

Postby Dom » Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:17 pm

Stacey wrote:sweet spot eh?
now that pic would be gorgeous without all those footprints :P
hehe - just teasing!


It's Tito's fault! :D
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