Bear Mtn next weekend

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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Fred » Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:12 pm

Has the route in the photos been done? The bolted one on the second tier left of the big roof.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby PeterA » Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:27 pm

Yep, Jon and I each redpointed it a few weekends ago. We called it aim high. I've got the route description posted at the bottom of the bear mtn. info page. get on 'er fred!

-PJ
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 15, 2008 10:55 am

Looks like a cool line.

Another question for ya. The 5.11 trad route at the big roof 2nd tier.... traverse horizontal to big ledge. Does this route start under the "up high" big roof? Start in the corner under the big roof then hand traverse the horizontal to ledge. Or does it start on the arete through overhaning blocks to gain vertical crack to ledge? Also, once you reach the ledge do you go up the vertical crack next to the big roof or traverse left to gain the offwidth near "aim high" with bolt anchor on top?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby JonA » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:14 pm

Fred,

The 5.11 trad line (scarred for life) starts under the 'up high' big roof. Hand traverse a horizontal crack on the left wall, which leads to a ledge around the corner. once you are on the ledge climb the fist crack straight up from the corner. The crack begins just about as high as you can reach, so it's tricky to get into, and a little tricky to get pro. This is a good line, pretty hard. Took a couple falls on the crux move off the ledge, in fact it took me so long to get that move that Cory and Dan chopped down a 12-14" tree with an axe, while I was figuring it out. Must have been standing on that ledge for about a half hour, but I got to push over the tree from the ledge so that was fun. I gotta bolt some anchors on it.

The other line you are talking about, which starts through some overhanging blocks, goes up a vertical hand crack to the ledge, then traverse left over to the wide crack. This line hasn't actually been climbed yet I don't think, there is one breadloaf size block hanging on the start that might have to be cleaned. Peck put the anchors in the other day, I think he is planning on getting on her.
I just want to climb.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:09 pm

Jon B got on the second route you talk about. The one with the loaf ready to fall out then traverse left on ledge to offwidth. Although the block was pretty solid... he cranked on it with arms and stood on it as well. Sent ground up but didn't get it clean so I guess it's still a project. We didn't know there was an anchor above until he got to the top.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby JonA » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:57 pm

Sweet, when were you guys out there? What other routes did you try?
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby STeveA » Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:12 pm

Jon

Can you and peter mow the lawn?
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 15, 2008 5:04 pm

Almost everything was wet so we didn't accomplish much. Started off on Toad in the Hole. Nice line. Then went up to the 2nd tier and watched John go up that crack. Finished off with the 5.11d thrash at the right end of the cliff past 4 bolts. Man was that ever way harder than it looked. Cool spot. My only complaint was that the rock is a bit crumbly on the surface in places.... but that will improve with traffic I'm sure.

What I thought was especially interesting was the presence of several large boulders. They looked pretty sweet as a matter of fact. And Peck tells us there are more down in the woods.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Nihoa » Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:56 am

Fred wrote:What I thought was especially interesting was the presence of several large boulders. They looked pretty sweet as a matter of fact. And Peck tells us there are more down in the woods.


how large we talkin?
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Fred » Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:12 pm

some as high as 12ft with prob 6 routes or more per boulder

There are two boulders at the base of the second tier that look fun to play on with some easy and hard lines.

There are two or three more boulders on the approach trail and I'm told their family lives at the bottom of the hill below them. Peck could give you a better description.

If I thought they were nice enough to bring a pad that's saying something. hehe :)

I'll try to post photos soon.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bear Mtn next weekend

Postby Adam » Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:25 pm

Fred wrote:some as high as 12ft with prob 6 routes or more per boulder

There are two boulders at the base of the second tier that look fun to play on with some easy and hard lines.

There are two or three more boulders on the approach trail and I'm told their family lives at the bottom of the hill below them. Peck could give you a better description.

If I thought they were nice enough to bring a pad that's saying something. hehe :)

I'll try to post photos soon.


the two at the base of 2nd tier i wasn't THAT impressed with, though definitely some cool looking and hard arete problems on them, but i'd be more interested to see the ones at the bottom of the hill.
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