Welsford specific gear question?

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Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Murph » Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:16 pm

What size gear fits in the crack (where the piton used to be) on Sleeping Beauty 5.10c at Exfoliated wall? Anyone remember?
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Fred » Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:28 pm

yellow metolius
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Murph » Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:57 pm

Fred wrote:yellow metolius

so yellow C3 would work
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Fred » Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:12 pm

No the yellow C3 is a #2

I think the yellow metolius would be more equivalent to a BD C3 #0.4
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby chossmonkey » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:31 am

Fred wrote:No the yellow C3 is a #2

I think the yellow metolius would be more equivalent to a BD C3 #0.4



There is no C3 #0.4. They go #000-#2. Do you mean .04 C4?



A #2 C3 has a range listed as 0.56-0.89"/14.2-22.6 mm.

The .04 C4 has a range listed as 0.61-1.05"/15.5-26.7 mm.

The range for a Yellow #2 Metolius is listed as 0.62 - 0.89”
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Fred » Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:55 am

sorry. Make that standard camalot (C4?) 0.4 me thinks it's silverish. It's the one just smaller than the purple 0.5.
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Murph » Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:04 pm

Would there be a decent tri-cam (pink) placement?? Would that work??
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Fred » Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:22 pm

I don't trust those things but a pink might work. It's a key piece of gear on a 5.8 ish move followed by a nice bolt right where you want it for the crux. If that piece blows you're hitting a ledge 10ft below.
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby *Chris* » Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:37 pm

You could always just drive in a new pin... we know that would fit! :twisted:
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby PeterA » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:55 am

I remember slotting a bomber medium sized nut into that horizontal. That's another option

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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:07 pm

Fred wrote:I don't trust those things but a pink might work. It's a key piece of gear on a 5.8 ish move followed by a nice bolt right where you want it for the crux. If that piece blows you're hitting a ledge 10ft below.

A pink tricam is pretty close to the same size as a yellow TCU.

But while I love tri-cams, I have to agree with Fred, I don't usually trust one in a vertical crack. They can be kinda tricky to set in that situation.
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Fred » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:51 pm

it's a horizontal crack
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Burley » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:52 am

Ryan,

Come out with me one day this spring, we can rap in and I'll show you how I would place the cams and you can lead it. Just be aware of what will happen if you fall above the gear while clipping that bolt. It'll take two cams and I would suggest using two.

I recall a yellow alien and 0.5BD going in there. Yellow Alien would similar to a 0.4 BD.
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby granite_grrl » Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:20 pm

Fred wrote:it's a horizontal crack

Then I don't agree with you Fred. :P

Tri-cams are normally bomber in horizontals.
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Adam » Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:41 pm

i still have that pin at home :)

i place a yellow and orange tcu in there now i think. the move past there isn't hard, but last time i led it, i had one of those momentary lapses of concentration and leaned back a little far and almost whipped. if those cams weren't there i'd have been in BAD shape had i fallen.

if you can place two pieces do it. and yeah, a pink tricam would be bomber in there i think. just don't fall on it or you'll never get it out :)
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Annie » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:14 pm

As long as Ryan gets out successfully, the tri cam can stay there :D
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Re: Welsford specific gear question?

Postby Murph » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:07 pm

..I picked up a Pink & Red Tri-cam along with a #2 Yellow C3. I will likely rap down and place the gear before I lead it.
Burley... I'd appreciate the gear advice...
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