Stairway

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Stairway

Postby Murph » Tue Apr 21, 2009 6:12 pm

The second bolt hanger on "IT'S ABOUT TIME 5.9+" spun slightly when I clipped it on Sunday. There is still plenty of exposed tread and I climbed above it with confidence. If you are in the area and have a wrench, get on it... fun climb!
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
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Re: Stairway

Postby *Chris* » Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:19 pm

I'm pretty sure that ethic demands ye' who finds the loose hanger is responsible for it's prompt tightening! ye' better get back on it! :wink:

So how is that climb anyway?
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Re: Stairway

Postby david » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:15 am

stupid question... what size wrench does one need to tighten loose bolts. I noticed a few loose hangers in Sunnyside, including the anchor on the well-travelled superstar (might have been fixed already). I brought a random size last week-end and it was wrong. Thanks
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Re: Stairway

Postby Pierre » Wed Apr 22, 2009 12:56 pm

How about trying an adjustable wrench?
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Re: Stairway

Postby Murph » Wed Apr 22, 2009 2:47 pm

*Chris* wrote:I'm pretty sure that ethic demands ye' who finds the loose hanger is responsible for it's prompt tightening! ye' better get back on it! :wink:

So how is that climb anyway?


I didn't have a wrench with me but that will be something I'll carry in my pack from now on. As for the climb itself, it is a pretty fun climb. Thin(ish) holds but no really hard moves... spicy 5.9.
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
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Re: Stairway

Postby Greg » Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:29 pm

david wrote:stupid question... what size wrench does one need to tighten loose bolts. I noticed a few loose hangers in Sunnyside, including the anchor on the well-travelled superstar (might have been fixed already). I brought a random size last week-end and it was wrong. Thanks


You need a 9/16 wrench. Do not overtighten the nut though........that could be bad. I believe re-tourqed nuts need to go a quarter turn beyond hand tight. Someone else on the board may be able to verify that.
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Re: Stairway

Postby Greg » Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:48 pm

The little wrenches that come with Black Diamond ice tools will also work.
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Re: Stairway

Postby Murph » Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:40 pm

Check out the new DMM Nutbuster nut tool, has a wrench built in... neat idea but how many sport climbers carry a nut tool?
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
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Re: Stairway

Postby cory » Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:05 pm

Thanks for the warning, Murph.

Greg H wrote: Do not overtighten the nut though........that could be bad. I believe re-tourqed nuts need to go a quarter turn beyond hand tight.

That's about right, Greg. Bolting takes some practice and hands on experience. Sometimes the expansion sleeve bights in early, sometimes late. With practice you can get a feel for what's tight, and what's over or under-tightened. It's better to err on the side of under tight. The hanger may spin and some force is lost, but you can typically notice this when clipping and improvise or at the very least snug it up with your fingers. Over-tight and it looks good, but it'll hold about as much force as a stick in the mud.

I'm not sure if it's safest to tighten it immediately yourself Murph, or wait for someone with experience to do it. Best bet would be buy someone a beer in exchange for having them teach you to do it. :)
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