New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

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New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby john » Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:51 pm

Top Gun 50'/S(7?)/R(2) 5.12
Bolted line just left of Space Invaders.
FFA John Bowles July 26/09

Bolted by Adam Morgan.
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Stacey » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:32 pm

Great work John!
''When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.''
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Adam » Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:45 pm

john wrote:Top Gun 50'/S(7?)/R(2) 5.12
Bolted line just left of Space Invaders.
FFA John Bowles July 26/09

Bolted by Adam Morgan.


good work John. maybe wait till the route is dry next time so you get to use all the holds.
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Leehammer » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:19 pm

you can be my wingman anytime John
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Fred » Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:52 am

Leehammer wrote:you can be my wingman anytime John


LOL
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Fred » Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:23 pm

John:

I'm updating the new routes guide. What's your best guess at the letter grade? Is it harder than Grand Theft Project? Easier than Ra?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby john » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:29 pm

it was running with water when I did it and I had climbed all the other hard routes there first so its hard to say. I top roped it to dry the holds and redpointed it first try with no thought to the grade at the time. If I were to guess it is in the same range and grandtheft project not as sustained but one harder move. The top was really dirty.

I think space invaders is 11b, staying in the corner is contrived when good holds are within a ft or so and the bolts are easliy clipped from them. Grand theft is 12b I think and top gun 12a and blood boil 11d.

I thin the third bolt has to be moved right on top gun to make it fun and I think there would be a harder route left of it to go as well. In the hard 12 range looking at it from the ground.
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby Adam » Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:48 am

john wrote:I think space invaders is 11b, staying in the corner is contrived when good holds are within a ft or so and the bolts are easliy clipped from them.


agreed

john wrote:I thin the third bolt has to be moved right on top gun to make it fun and I think there would be a harder route left of it to go as well. In the hard 12 range looking at it from the ground.


will take a look at the bolt placement next time i'm down.

other route... you talking the dirty dihedral/layback?
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Re: New Route Greenlaw - Top Gun

Postby martha » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:36 am

john wrote:and blood boil 11d.



really? seems pretty hard for 11d. at least those few moves through the crux. I would have said 12-....?
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