Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby anderfo » Wed Nov 11, 2009 2:55 am

anderfo wrote:Anyway, with a (french) prussik knot he would have solved it quite easily, even though his hands were frozen.

...of course I talk about Simon, not Joe, when I say a prussik knot would help in passing the knot through a belay device.
Cheers and good night :)
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Shawn B » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:00 pm

*Chris* wrote:
Shawn B wrote:Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots? :twisted: :twisted:
I use and teach the latter.

Too bad you weren't teaching more people Chris.
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Shawn B » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:02 pm

Fred wrote: Must get back there soon. Fred

Didn't think you liked Red Rocks Fred?
Safety third!!!
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Fred » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:20 pm

Shawn B wrote:Didn't think you liked Red Rocks Fred?


I don't. But I need to get back to Vegas to visit the Bunny Ranch and go fire an AK47.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Stacey » Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:33 am

Yup- you are right - it was from joining the two ropes...his partner couldn't take the weight off the rope as he was mid-air...thus the cutting....no rap knots involved.
''When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.''
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Adam » Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:48 am

Shawn B wrote:Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots? :twisted: :twisted:


i readily admit i use two quickdraws o&o to build an anchor when sport climbing. i have NEVER heard of a rope coming out of such a set up so i don't think that can be associated with not tying knots in yer rope.

next! :)

wow this thread has become epic!
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Greg » Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:40 pm

*Chris* wrote:Something that I've observed about teaching, particularly when it comes to climbing, is that a beginner can really only absorb 3-4 key points at a time. I watched this year as someone attempted to give a 30-minute crash course on everything climbing. Subjects included knots, rapping, anchors, cams, nuts, bolt placement, belaying, and a number of very interesting situations which cause one to act in some way contrary to a 'rule-of-thumb'. Afterwards, I asked a few of the people crowded around what they retained from the little session. The answer was 'nothing'.

Shawn and Steve make a good case for a long period of learning whereby an inexperienced person can be taught to identify proper action through situational expereince. The apprenticeship model. That's indeed the best case but guess what... I see very little of that going on around here.

Many people today are getting their climbing education from a 2 day course, a book, or reading something online. If that's all they're getting and I've got limited ability to explain the dozens of complexities out there... I'll stick with the rule of thumb that works 99 times out of 100... especially when the 1 time it doesn't work isn't likely to get you killed. I've still not read a good reason to stop preaching knots.

Shawn B wrote:Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots? :twisted: :twisted:
I use and teach the latter.


I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots. :wink:
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby martha » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:33 am

Greg H wrote:
I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots. :wink:


I'd rather hang out at the bottom of the rope waiting for someone to come along than end up at the bottom as Rock Jello.
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Stacey » Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:37 am

martha wrote:
Greg H wrote:
I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots. :wink:


I'd rather hang out at the bottom of the rope waiting for someone to come along than end up at the bottom as Rock Jello.



me too Cara...better safe and sorry....
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Dom » Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:24 am

Greg H wrote:Did Telefunken get cleaned and rebolted on the weekend?


Telefunken is clean and rebolted. This route was dirty!!!! I also added webbing and rap rings(courtesy of Dave Peabody) on the birch tree anchor. Also, unlike the topo says, a 60M rope is plenty for the rap down.

This is arguably the best mix route in Cochrane Lane.

So what are you waiting for? GET ON IT!!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Leehammer » Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:13 am

Leehammer wrote:
david wrote: we decided to leave the rope.


Got the rope back yesterday. And my favorite green hoodie! A big thanks to whoever hung it on the fence.
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Stacey » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:19 am

Dombackpacker wrote:
Greg H wrote:Did Telefunken get cleaned and rebolted on the weekend?


Telefunken is clean and rebolted. This route was dirty!!!! I also added webbing and rap rings(courtesy of Dave Peabody) on the birch tree anchor. Also, unlike the topo says, a 60M rope is plenty for the rap down.

This is arguably the best mix route in Cochrane Lane.

So what are you waiting for? GET ON IT!!




Great work ... I hate to ask what time you finished up!

Will definitely get on it ... The next nice day ... This rain today on a plus 14 November day is unimpressive!!!!!
''When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.''
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Stacey » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:21 am

Leehammer wrote:
Leehammer wrote:
david wrote: we decided to leave the rope.


Got the rope back yesterday. And my favorite green hoodie! A big thanks to whoever hung it on the fence.




Glad you found it ... Great work on lichen cream cheese , it's a stellar route!
''When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.''
~John Muir
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Leehammer » Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:19 pm

It was all Dave Drolet!

Also climbed the Dikes on Bikes variation yesterday, that climb has a really neat crux!
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Andrew » Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:20 pm

Did anyone ever find these brushes available in Saint John area?
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby GKelly » Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:10 pm

Napa has then in Hampton so I'm sure you can get them in SJ. They are available with different bristles. Go for the heaviest of the bunch.
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Re: Cochrane Lane Cleaning

Postby Andrew » Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:46 am

Awesome. I'll go get some asap. My 1 brush of that type is nearly worn out after doing 4 new routes.
GKelly wrote:Napa has then in Hampton so I'm sure you can get them in SJ. They are available with different bristles. Go for the heaviest of the bunch.
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