What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

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What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby andriy » Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:11 pm

If you could hit up two or three spots in NB in mid-February, where would you go?

thanks for any ideas...
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby max » Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:48 am

i would to Grand Manan, Little Salmon River, and Parlee Brook.

saying this I have only been to Parlee and it is rad. I know there are long routes on the Little Salmon River with no one around and this area has some of the only old growth in NB. And Grand Manan because from what I hear and photos I've seen it is the best ice, if it forms, in the east outside of Quebec. Both Grand Manan and LSR take some logistics and if you haven't been to Parlee before it can be challenging to find. But all are worth it!
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby theriault » Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:20 am

I would agree with Max, but would add St-Martins for its diversity, quantity, short approaches and beautiful surroundings.
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby darrell » Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:28 pm

FYI I don't believe that they are logging (and therefore not plowing) most of the way into LSR, like they have in the past couple of years. The plowing likely stops a couple of kms past Adair's Wilderness Lodge, where the LSR rd splits with the Shepody rd. You will have about a 12km ski each way, besides the hour long slog down and back up the ravines to the climbs.

It is a wicked spot but this year would be worth using a skidoo to do it, or skiing in with some camping gear, and spending a night in there, probably at the top, to avoid dragging heavy camping gear down and back up again.
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby Stacey » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:40 pm

darrell wrote:It is a wicked spot but this year would be worth using a skidoo to do it, or skiing in with some camping gear, and spending a night in there, probably at the top, to avoid dragging heavy camping gear down and back up again.


This is on my tick list for 2010 -- hopefully sometime in the next 3 January weekends...any other takers? I've never been in before...but it looks pretty awesome from pictures!

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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby darrell » Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:00 pm

Stacie - it probably won't be worth it until mid february, as it makes it much easier to travel between climbs when the Walton Glen Brook and LS rivers are frozen (solid enough to walk on anyway).

You can rap into certain areas, and climb out, something like Blue wall or Alaska Flashback, but they would be hard to find from the top, if you don't know where you are going. There are some pretty steep banks getting down to the top of the climbs if you get in the wrong spot - which is easy to do.

When the river is frozen it's much easier to get in, without rappelling, and you can see all of the climbs from the bottom.
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby Stacey » Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:09 am

darrell wrote:Stacie - it probably won't be worth it until mid february, as it makes it much easier to travel between climbs when the Walton Glen Brook and LS rivers are frozen (solid enough to walk on anyway).

When the river is frozen it's much easier to get in, without rappelling, and you can see all of the climbs from the bottom.



thanks Darrell - that sounds great...we should try to organize a weekend and get a group to go in - - do some camping out! Would be great...you up for it?

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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby gwa » Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:43 am

Walton Glen Canyon and the Little Sal are pretty rad. Makes for an adventurous backcountry trip in the winter.

Four of us camped in there last February and had an awesome weekend of climbing. We set up camp by McCumber Brook, upstream of the major falls that lead down into the WG Canyon. This was along the most common descent path into WG Canyon. Camping by McCumber Brook ensures a nice water source (better than having to melt snow).

From Adair's we traveled down a plowed road (too bad it won't be plowed this year :( ) along the West Side of the Little Salmon. We parked near the intersection that heads off to the Big Salmon. (Not sure what those back roads are called.) We pulled sleds on xc skis following snowmobile trails into the descent trail via McCumber Brook. It's pretty flat going until you get to the descent into McCumber Brook. The xc skis and sleds worked well for this, though we owe a big thanks to the other climbers who broke a snowmobile trails in ahead of us.

We climbed at Blue Wall on the first day and at Walton Glen Falls the second. The brook (McCumber) in WG Canyon was frozen up nicely but snowshoes would have been useful...we were wading around in waist deep snow. Luckily some other ice climbers had been in with Snowshoes to beat down a trail.

I'd like to go back for three + days. On a two day trip you spend a big chunk of each day just traveling in and out to the car.

It's a remote place...Better have your shizzle together before heading in there for a few days.
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby andriy » Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:19 pm

max wrote:... And Grand Manan because from what I hear and photos I've seen it is the best ice, if it forms, in the east outside of Quebec...


whoa - those are some strong accolades!

Coupled with St Martin's, I think it will satisfy my appetite to climb up and off the beach before the tides come in...

Thanks for your thoughts...
ak
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby Joe » Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:41 am

The ice near Quaco Head Lighthouse is the only ice in the St. Martins area that is shaded from the sun, so is the most consistant. The longer ice near Berrys Beach is very suseptible to sun damage therefore more fickle. Be sure to check the tide schedule for the day you are planning to climb.
No one has suggested the most popular areas - Welsford, Ministers Face and Parlee Br. The first two are popular due to fairly easy access and good 1 pitch ice. Parlee is popular because of the abundance of good ice but it's a 3 km hike (and apparently a challenge to find for some!). Also don't forget about Grand Falls - lots of great ice with very easy access.
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Re: What's your ideal tour of NB ice?

Postby andriy » Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:55 pm

From the ice reports to date, am I correct to assume that the ice season has gotten off to a slow start this year?
I'm thinking cold thoughts... But perhaps the temperature swings will make for good ice creation...

Thinking cold thoughts... (but not too cold ;-)

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