Trouble with Lichen

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Trouble with Lichen

Postby Dom » Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:18 pm

Got on this route for the first time this weekend and it kicked my ass!

Is there a static short man's beta? I had to dyno for the sloper and came up short almost every time. (I'm 5'9 or 5'10 something like that).

So did something break off or is it simply sandbag or am I simply weak? (could be all 3 I guess hehe)?
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:33 pm

Nothing broke off. It is possible to climb on small edges to the right, but probably not easier than the dyno. Basically get set up and hit the sweet spot. I am 5'9".
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Pierre » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:00 am

Hey Dom,

I can't believe what I'm hearing... Your pulling out the short card! :shock:

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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Adam » Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:18 am

you should be able to get your feet high enough that the dyno is doable. it's a big move but you can definitely do it.
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Adam » Tue Aug 10, 2010 10:18 am

Adam wrote:you should be able to get your feet high enough that the dyno is doable. it's a big move but you can definitely do it.


scratch that, so that the dead-point is doable. you should be able to keep a foot on.
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby martha » Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:41 pm

I'm 5'4 and I've hit that move before (sigh, before I was old - mind you I haven't been on that route in years) with a kinda static, kinda dyno move in combination with the small holds. thank god I can hold on to crimps... get the feet high, lock off and giver!
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Dom » Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:33 am

All right, no short card I guess. I have to try and launch of those little footholds. :|

Just for the record, I think this route is harder than its neighbour Farewell to Arms...Maybe Farewell suits more my style?
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Adam » Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:39 am

Dom wrote:All right, no short card I guess. I have to try and launch of those little footholds. :|

Just for the record, I think this route is harder than its neighbour Farewell to Arms...Maybe Farewell suits more my style?


must suit your style as i find farewell harder.
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Nihoa » Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:13 pm

i got on this today with fred and was able to hit the dead point after finding some decent feet. @ 5'6'' im denying your membership to the short club. there were some feet chalked that i launched off a few times before finding two better ones. with the better feet i smacked it first go. now after complaining someone ticked the flowers out of bone machine and didnt clean them off i forgot to clean my two ticks off twl so if you were to go down in the next bit youd see what i used. kinda impossible to explain where/what i used but the feet that were chalked and i tried at first were both lower and left and right of the ones i found. the right that i ended up using was actually a pretty good flattened jib and left was just some slopey garbage but worked better for me.
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby motanb » Thu Aug 26, 2010 4:18 pm

This makes me think that perhaps Dean Potter has absolutely no skill , technique etc. what-so-ever..... And the only reason he achieves any climbing 'success' is do merely to lengthy genetics, without which I doubt he'd never achieve an articles notice.;-)
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Dom » Fri Aug 27, 2010 8:45 am

motanb wrote:This makes me think that perhaps Dean Potter has absolutely no skill , technique etc. what-so-ever..... And the only reason he achieves any climbing 'success' is do merely to lengthy genetics, without which I doubt he'd never achieve an articles notice.;-)



Ramón Julián Puigblanque is 5'4'' (FA of la Rambla, many world cup lead wins, some 5.14's OS)

Lynn Hill is 5'1'' (FA of the nose, first woman to climb 5.14...)

Jean-Christophe Lafaille was 5'3'' (soloed 5.13's in the 80's, probably made the most incredible self-rescue in moutaineering history)

My point is height doesn't matter.

I think bouldering is different though and relies more on body type... For instance, Dean Potter probably has a harder time on some of those SDS boulder problems...
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Adam » Fri Aug 27, 2010 9:48 am

Dom wrote:Jean-Christophe Lafaille was 5'3'' (soloed 5.13's in the 80's, probably made the most incredible self-rescue in moutaineering history)


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Christophe_Lafaille

wow had never read up on the guy. CORE!
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Re: Trouble with Lichen

Postby Shawn B » Fri Aug 27, 2010 12:13 pm

Short people climb...tall people reach. :wink:
Safety third!!!
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