NEW ICE ROUTES LOG

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NEW ICE ROUTES LOG

Postby Joe » Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:40 am

NEW ICE ROUTES

Walton Glen Canyon
About 75 meters downstream from Walton Glen Falls, on the east side of the brook is a small flat area that would make a great campsite. Above this site you will find the "Geezer Area" containing an assortment of new ice and mixed routes.

It’s Never Enough WI 4 M4 (S3) 50 m M. Martin, G. Hughes 2016
10 meters right of Geezer Falls is a narrow line of ice that leads to a rocky overhang with an ice dagger. Climb a steep ramp of ice to a small ledge below the dagger. If the dagger is in shape fire straight up clipping 3 bolts before topping out on the first pitch and anchoring at a spruce tree. If the dagger is not in shape move up and right through rock and ice to the anchor. Another pitch of ice can be found above.

Chimney Fire WI 4 30 m G. Hughes, M. Martin 2016
About 20 meters left of White Fang is a mixed ice and rock chimney climb. Climb the ice in the chimney to the top of a gulley. Use chimney or stemming moves to manage the pump factor on this very steep section. An easier snow and ice filled gulley will take you to the top.

Thick or Thin WI 3+ M4 (S3) 30 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, P. Arsenault 2015
Located about 20 meters uphill from White Fang. Climb thin ice and rock for 15 meters clipping 3 very well placed bolts as you go. Continue on to a 15 meter piece of pure ice that leads to the top. A very enjoyable climb. Anchor at same tree as White Fang.

Sea Monster Wall

Located high on the valley wall on the west side of Walton Glen Canyon just 200 meters from the lookout is a beautiful, broad, wall of pure ice and potential for mixed climbing. The following four routes are found on this wall. N 45°29’31.5” W065°17’56.4”

Ceirean WI 3 30 m M. Delaney, L. Woltman 2016 The furthest line right on Sea Monster Wall. 15 meters of steep ice leads to a lower angle ramp weaving its way up to a small pillar of ice.

Kraken WI 4 45 m S. Jones, J. Kennedy, G. Hughes 2016
Climb the most obvious central line of gorgeous ice. 20 meters of near vertical ice leads to a lower angle section narrowing into a gulley at the top.

Proteus WI 4+ 30 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Take the line just left of Kraken, a long steep column that leads to a lower angle flow. Quite sustained.

Hydra WI 4+ 35 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Start on the last bit of ice touching down on the left side of the curtain. Move left onto more ice when possible and continue trending left until you reach a continuous flow to the top.

Triton WI 4 25 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, A. Boerlage 2016
Located just 40 meters downstream from One Green Line on the same side of the drainage is a broad 50 degree snowfield that leads to a gulley and a wall of ice. Triton is the first line encountered on the left as you go up the gulley. Begin on a thin verglassed slab and work your way up and right to a steep, fat pillar that leads to a Pine tree.

Surf and Turf WI 3 130 m G. Hughes, L. Woltman 2016
Just before the brook turns left going downstream look up to the right and you will see a snow slope leading to a left trending gulley. Follow the gulley up until you see a narrow flow of ice. 75 meters of WI 3 ice leads to 55 meters of steep snow before topping out on the plateau.

Snapping Turtle WI 3 40 m M. Delaney, G. Hughes 2016
Just right of the Blue Wall is a large low angle waterfall with two distinct lines. Climb the right most line exiting in the trees right of the drainage. Note: This route is not a first ascent as it was likely climbed during the early forays into this area, however, it should be recorded as a climb and reference for The Blue Wall because it makes for an excellent entry and exit point.

Giza’s Way Out WI 2+ 35 m A. Boerlage, L. Woltman 2016
Just right of the Blue Wall is a large low angle waterfall with two distinct lines. Climb the left line leading straight up into the drainage. Note: This route is not a first ascent as it was likely climbed during the early forays into this area, however, it should be recorded as a climb and reference for The Blue Wall because it makes for an excellent entry and exit point.

Narwhal WI 5 35 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Approximately 30 meters downstream from the Blue Wall is a long snowfield on the opposite side (north bank) of the brook. Climb the 50 degree snowfield to a hidden gulley which will appear on the right. Climb the gulley starting with low angle ice which steepens and leads to a narrow curtain. Continue up narrowing gulley to an ice roof. Pull the roof and then continue up a short slab to the top.

Gin and Tonic WI 4 100 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2016
Located about 35 meters downstream from the Blue Wall on the same side of Walton Glen Brook (south bank). Find a narrow band of ice leading up and right into a hidden gulley. Climb 60 meters of easy ice and steep snow to reach a bench below a nice pitch of steep ice high on the wall. Ascend the broad curtain to the trees.

Margarita WI 4+ 30 m G. Hughes 2016
Located 20 meters right of Fireball Alley or 40 meters left of Gin and Tonic. Climb a short pillar of ice until you can mover right to a vertical curtain of ice. Ascend the curtain and continue up through a series of pillars to the trees.

Tequila Sunrise WI 3 75 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2016
Located 15 meters to the right of Fireball Alley. Climb a 5 meter wide curtain of ice to a steep snow ramp leading up and right. Pitch 2 ascends an easier slab of ice to the trees.


Quiddy River Area
This area is accessed using logging roads that branch off the Little Salmon River Road. There are several possible options to get there and approach the climbs. GPS coordinates are given below.

Quiddy River Two Step WI 3 120 m J. Kennedy, D. Hamel, G. Hughes, S. Bethune 2016
On the east side of the river climb a long meandering line of ice and rock to the top of the valley. The route faces southwest so it was only in fair condition on the fa. It should fatten up nicely in a normal winter. N45 32 35, W65 13 20

Scorpionflies WI 3+ 120 m G. Hughes, J. Kennedy, D. Hamel, S. Bethune 2016
Found on the west side of the river about 200 meters downstream from QRTS. Climb a steep snow slope to reach the base of a broad wall of ice. Several lines are possible. Climb the 20 meter wall until it backs off to WI1 and 2 for the remaining 100 meters. N45 32 28, W65 13 08

Mt. Misery:

When in Doubt, Deck - M7, 18m. FFA: Cory Hall, PJ Adamson dec.23/09
Climb the bolted line (b3) between meringue and main street, through the overhang and up the rock buttress to finish on ice up top, first bolt is a stick-clip.

Doing the Dirty Work – WI3 FFA: Lucas Toron, Graham Waugh Feb. /09
Climb ice line to the right of “Straight Up” trending left at top

Test Drive – WI3+ FFA: Joe Kennedy Jan. /09
Climb the large flow to the left of “Little Dike”, involves a cool log mantel.

Flashback – WI4+ FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Jan. /10
Climb the cave on the far right on the upper cliff. It was renamed from “Mr. Fantastic” in the ice guide. This climb has it all; good vertical ice, stemming, chimneying, ice fist jams, blind tool swings...super cool

Golden Shower - M7 FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Jan. /10
Start up “Golden Pillar” then trend left up another short pillar to finish on steep bolted face above (b3)

The Cave – WI3+ 10M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
Several possible lines at the far right of the of the lover cliff, see guidebook

Stalactite – WI4 10M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
A hanging icicle, that occasionally forms into a free-standing column as was the case for the ffa . Guidebook correction: found 5m to the left of”The Cave”, not on the far right.

Freedom 24 – WI4 15M FFA: Graham Waugh, Cory Hall Feb. /10
Climb steep ice through trees to top, normally thin. Found 10m to the left of “the Cave”.

Cascade Falls - WI4 20M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10
Climb the thin curtains to the right and downhill of “Right Buttress”, then up one of two thick pillars to the top.

Gondola Point:

Let the Sparks Fly – WI4 30M FFA: Cory Hall, Graham Waugh Feb. /10.
I believe this to be the first ascent of a very obvious route found high on the cliffs by Clifton Royal. Drive past the gondola point rock climbing area, continue west a short distance until an ice flow is visible on the cliffs to the right, obvious from the ferries. Climb a thin runnel on the right to a ledge, then up a steep thin curtain to a large tree on top. We climbed this route at night in typical thin conditions, involving mandatory rock moves, and sparks, above interesting pro. If thick it would provide great moderate climbing with great exposure. For some reason it’s one of my favorite ice routes to date
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Quarry:

Hemorrhoids
– WI4+ 20M FFA: Cory Hall, Steve Adamson, John Adamson
Start up “Iced Cheese” then climb the smear on the right hand wall, very steep, anchor tree shared with “Preparation H”. Rarely formed.
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The Southern Roadcut

These climbs are found on the new (2011/2012) highway cuts south of Eagle rock. The routes are described from left to right (South to North) and are all following straight lines up the face. Many variations are possible but I don't think its worth documenting. All of these First ascents were climbed on a full moon weeknight.
Approach: Park next to the highway and trek the whole 50m to the base of the wall. Officially the shortest approach for Ice in NB.



Welcome to Welsford National Park - WI 3+, 20m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
The obvious flow on the left of the wall. Climb low angle ice to a few bulges near the top.


Marcy Beaucoup - WI4, 20m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
Climb the vertical chandeliered face left of PMG to a low angle finish. Delicate interesting climbing


Pas Much de Glace
- WI4 M2 G, 18m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
Climb the obvious vertical crack just right of MB to two pillars back to back that start half way up the face. As this is a highway cut, be careful of loose rock in the mix section. Surprinsingly, The vertical crack takes bomber cams.
Note: First Ascent party did not plan on climbing rock so no rock gear was used on the first ascent making this a spicy loose R/X route.


Right S'ul Bord D'la Highway - WI3, 18m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
The right most flow just to the right of the red "Danger" graffiti.

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Glebe Road

From Sussex Corner head toward Poley Mountain on the Waterford Road. Turn right onto the Parlee Brook Rd. Turn left onto the Glebe Road. Drive to the end of the ploughed section near the last house on the road (number 150). From this point continue for 2.6 k on Glebe Road until you reach an intersection (an all wheel drive vehicle will get you to this point if it hasn’t snowed much). Don’t take the left turn here but continue straight for about 100 meters downhill. Look for a flagged trail just before a drainage. Follow the trail downhill for about 300 meters until you come to a look out. From there you can see the amphitheater up and left and the practice walls directly across the ravine. The trail continues to the top of Glebe Falls. There is a rap station at the lookout or you can rap a big Poplar tree (has green paint on it) near the top of Glebe Falls. Both rappel stations will deposit you on a ledge with one 60 meter rope. From there it is an easy scramble down to the bottom of the ravine. If you don’t want to rappel you can continue walking west and find a scramble down to the base of the Short Wall Fun.

1. Short Wall Fun WI 3, 18 m L. Toron, G. Hughes 22/01/12
Found about 40 meters west of Glebe Falls. Can also be accessed if you take the scramble down the right of the Glebe Falls rapell station. There is a wide wall of ice that is about 18 to 20 meters at it’s highest point. Several lines/variatons possible.

2. The Lampion WI 4, 20 m M. Theriault, C. Hall 22/01/12
Steep waterfall pillar found just west of Glebe Falls. Pumpy and technical climbing. Three variations possible.

3. Glebe Falls WI2, 60 m G. Hughes, S. Hughes 14/01/12
Found below the Practice Walls on the opposite side of the ravine near the confluence of three drainages. Begins with a 30 meter section of WI 1 and then a curtain waterfall above. Three lines possible on this wide waterfall.

4. Escape Hatch WI 2, 70 m, G. Hughes 16/01/2012
As you approach the amphitheater you will notice a gulley leading up to the left. More snow than ice but a nice 5 m ice wall near the top provides some fun. This is an easy way to access the top of the other routes on the left side of the amphitheater.

5. Le Pilier du Pape WI 5, 35m FFA M.Thériault, G. Hughes, S. Hughes, S. Arcand 19/03/11
Climb the first big obvious left pillar in the amphitheater. An easy ramp brings you to a 20m dead vertical pillar. A 3 stars route! Typically does not form until later in the season.

6. The Cardinal’s Realm WI 4+, 25 m. G. Hughes, A. Fougner, 13/03/2010.
Easy climbing up low angle ice to the left side of a steep, sustained pillar. Fun climbing with pillar on right and hanging curtain on left with solid top.

7. Central Pillar WI 4, 25 m. G. Hughes, S. Couturier, 21/02/2010.
Easy climbing up low angle ice to the right side of a large vertical pillar. Continue up pillar to solid top out and tree anchor.

8. Total Fusion WI 3+, 25 m. G. Hughes, S. Hughes, 19/03/2011.
This is the chimney formation 5 meters to the right of Central Pillar. Follow slab up to a series of vertical steps and ice chimney.

9. The Cold Room WI 3+, 40 m, G. Hughes, S. Hughes, M. Delaney, S. Burt 08/01/21012 Follow the weakness out of the back of the amphitheater. Top out on the final pillar on the left above a step.

10. Knight to Bishop WI 3+, 20 m. G. Hughes, S. Couturier, 21/02/2010.
Start at the base of the two tiered pillar on the upper right side of the amphitheater. 7 meter headwall followed by low angle section and 5 meter headwall.

11. Holy Cow WI 3+, 20 m. A. Fougner, G. Hughes, S. Couturier, 13/03/2010.
On right hand side of amphitheater there is an obvious waterfall that is usually the first route to form on this side.

12. Bleeding Deacons WI 2, 20 m. G. Hughes, S. Couturier, A. Fougner 13/03/2010.
This route is found 10 meters to the right of Holy Cow but doesn’t usually form until late in the season.

Practice Wall
Before entering the amphitheater you will find a long slab of ice capped by a wide headwall. The following routes are found in this area. These routes are all about 35 meters in length.

13. A Walk in the Park WI 3, 35m G. Hughes, S. Hughes, 08/01/2012
This is the line on the far left. Begins with a short steep section then lower angle to final headwall.

14. The Fat Friar WI 3, 35m M. Delaney, S. Burt, 20/03/10
The middle line on the wall. Begin up low angle ice to platform then final steeper section.

15. Pipe Organ WI 3+, 35m M. Delaney, S. Burt, 20/03/10 The furthest line on the right.

Upper Practice Wall
A separate wall about half as high is found up and right of the Practice Wall.

16. Ice Cream Sandwich WI 2+, 18 m G. Hughes, S. Hughes 14/01/12
The first line after reaching the base of the wall. Great warm up or for someone looking to start leading ice. Better top out on Birch tree anchor.

17. Temporary Marble WI 2, 15 G. Hughes, S. Hughes 14/01/12 Next obvious line 5 m over/up from ICS.

GlebeIce.png

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Parlee Brook:

Truancy Falls
– WI5+, 40m FFA: C. Hall, A. Kolos, L. Toron, G. Waugh. Feb. 10.
Truancy falls is a freestanding column found in by Parlee Brook. Take the lower approach, go past Hullholmes Falls, and enter the woods on the right side of the cabin, follow a stream bed to the route. Climb 30m of dead vertical, mushroomed, and chandeliered ice to the lip, another 10m of slab gets you to the trees. This route is rarely in, but when it is drop everything to climb it....one of New Brunswick’s best routes!!



Montagnes Russes Hivernales WI3 60m M.Theriault, L. Gallant, S. Arcand 12/01/13
Head into the drainage system left (climbers left) of HullHolmes, 3 x 10m walls separated by snow fields. Descent to the right in the forest. The second wall is a nice funky pillar!

Montagnes Russes Printanières WI 2-3 75m(ish) FFA M. Thériault 20/03/11
Climb found 50m right (climber`s right) of Hullholmes falls. Climb the first 10m of Hullholmes and walk about 50m in the wood to the next drainage system. Link up a bunch of Head walls (up to 10m) all the way to the top of the hill.

Solo slabs – WI2+ 40M FFA: unknown
This is the large ice covered wall found up hill and to the right of Truancy falls.

Treecicles – WI3 30M FFA: Cory Hall Jan. / 12
Follow the main drainage past truancy, and you should find yourself standing in front of a nice wide blue flow. There is a nice curtain up top with some cool icicles hanging off of the trees behind, you can stem off some of them.... others break.

Winter Warmer Wall – WI 3+ 25M FFA: Cory Hall Jan. /12
Follow the drainage on the top of Treecicle, after a short distance a wide wall will become visible on the right. The longest central line climbs at around 3+, the wall is easier to the right, and shorter but harder on the left. I’m not really sure on the height because I didn’t have a rope.

Alpine Squeeze WI2+/3, 150 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, S. Gibbs, S. Arcand, S. Hughes 29/01/12
This route is located in the Parlee area behind the cabin near Hullholmes Falls. After passing Truancy Falls continue up to a 15 meter slab of ice on your left. Climb to the top of the slab and move leftward to a long narrow snow chute punctuated with ice to a large chockstone. Move up and left around this obstacle and continue climbing up to a short but steeper section of ice. Top out and belay off tree anchor. Move slightly left and continue up to a narrow cave that leads through a massive buttress of rock. Easy climbing through the cave on ice and rock for about 20 meters. Exit cave and continue up ice gulley to the top. From here you can walk up through pre-commercial thinned forest to an atv trail. This trail leads northeast to Friars Nose and Arnold Hollow Road or south toward the upper approach to Parlee Ice Climbs. This is a very interesting, enjoyable climb through varied and unique terrain.

Marty's Choice WI4+ R, 20m M. Theriault, S. Arcand 05/01/13
20m left of Patrick's Choice, climb a solid ice ramp to an overhanging chandelired curtain, challenging technical climbing and almost unexistant protection through the crux. Seldom forms.

Remote Control WI 3+ 18 m G. Hughes 24/02/13
This route is found in the Treesicles gulley behind the cabin at Parlee, directly opposite Truancy Falls. Climb a snow chute located up and right of Treesicles for about a 60 feet until a narrow runnel of ice appears on the left. Steep, technical climbing with good stemming leads to tree anchor.
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Tracys Falls WI4, 12m. J. Kennedy. Feb 10.
Found 2.5 km east of Taylor Lake in Saint John, along a popular snowmobile trail. I haven't heard of anyone else climbing this before, but it's not really worth a special trip. Very layered ice giving technical climbing and poor screws. But it's sunny, sheltered, and cute.
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Cape Maringouin

The routes are numbered from 1 being the furthest away looking down the beach and 17 being the first one you arrive to, mainly because I counted them this way. 1 is ice rain, 2 is 3 days of feasting, 13 is winter monkey, 14 has the tallest & widest flow and has 2 lines at WI4 the right most being 2 Planes of Ice. the first flow you get to is Fat So WI 2-3.

2 Planes of Ice WI4 20m. Max Fisher and Kristen Lewis. Dec 09

Winter Monkey WI3 20m. Max Fisher and Kristen Lewis. Dec 09

3 Days of Feasting WI3 15m. Max Fisher and Kristen Lewis. Dec 09

Raining Ice WI 2/3+ 18m. Max Fisher and Kristen Lewis. Dec 09

Coward WI4 8m. Michel Martin and Pierre Arsenault. Jan 11.

Crowded WI3 8m. Max Fisher and Mike Delaney. Jan 11.

Root Beer WI4 8m. Michel Martin and Max Fisher. Jan 11.
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Bald Hill

The lower tier of Bald Hill had quite a few separate flows, not all touching down and most very thin but looking like with good weather they'd plump up.

Concepcion WI 3-, 40' (T) FFA: M. Peck, J. Barth (13.March.09)
Follow the far left gully escape route from the lower tier to the upper.

Happy Adventure WI 4, 50' (T) FA: M. Peck, J. Barth (13.March.09)
Ascend the flow immediately left of bolted line Neopolitan. Thin and delicate lower moves up to a small overhang, past Neopolitan's bolt anchors to tree on ledge above.

Bushwhacking - WI4 15m FFA: Lucas Toron, Cory Hall Jan./11
Near the center of the main wall, on the lower tire, are two twin flows. Climb the left one, very thin ice for the first 20 feet, then great ice and gear to the top.

Jungle Shwacking – WI4 15m FFA: Cory Hall, Lucas Toron Jan. 2011
Near the center of the main wall, on the lower tire, are two twin flows. Climb the right one, similar to bushwhacking but a little thinner.
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St Martins/ Little Beach

Quahog Falls WI4++, 30m. J & D Kennedy, Feb 2011.
Found on Little Beach, 1 km west of the access trail to Superbowl. Once you get to the beach, head (right) towards St. Martins. The falls are hidden within a little cove along the beach, so you cannot see them until you are close. The falls have a good flow, and at the time of ascent the falls were hard on the outside but soft and liquid on the inside, like a clam. Under good conditions it would likely be WI4+, but when thin/soft the ice is manky and gear is poor. Best under cold and cloudy conditions. These falls are above the high tides, so tide tables are less of a concern.
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Grand Manan

Cougar Town WI5+, 40m. FFA: Cory Hall, Joe Kennedy, Feb /11.
Zigzag your way up the steep wall just to the left of Mrs. Dunsters, avoiding most but not all of the overhanging sections. Finish up very steep icicles to a root hook on the right side of the belay tree, a very steep and technical line.
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Sunny Side

La Duchesse- WI 4++ 20m FFA M. Theriault, L. Gallant, D. Caron, J. St-Coeur 27/02/11.
Climb found in Sunnyside directly to the right of Black Dwarf (rock climb). Climb a vertical chandeliered curtain (hard to protect) for 15m then eases off over a few bulges to the top. The climb may be downgraded to WI4/4+ in Fat condition.
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Owl's Head (Alma)

Pierre Cale (Chock stone)
M2 WI 3+ 35m FFA M. Thériault, L. Gallant, D. Caron, F. Zambito 29/01/11
Climb found on Owl's Head about 1hrs walk from Alma on the beach. A very deep and narrow gully splits the cliff and has a very large chock stone about 8m up. Climb ice and rock for 10m to hit a long ramp, a final thick head wall is found on the left wall.
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Falls Brook

Blind Trust WI 4+ M4 65m FFA: Cory Hall, Lucas Toron Feb. / 2012
This route tackles the rock wall to the right of the main falls. Start in a small bowl and climb lower angled ice up to a steepening runnel, was a bit thin in spots. The ice ends 10m from the top, fist jam, layback, and dry tool up crap rock to the tree. I beat an old ice pick into the rock for pro because I didn’t have rock gear, bring some; the last move to the tree is exciting. We rapped 30m to the top of the falls, and another 30m got us mostly down.
Joe
 
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