New England Area Climbing

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New England Area Climbing

Postby tracstarr » Wed Jun 29, 2005 7:55 am

looking for information on sport/bouldering through the maine area and as far as rumney. any good sites for info? anyone here have info or are going that way during july 8th-17th?
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Postby martha » Wed Jun 29, 2005 8:06 am

There is sport climbing in Clifton Me. on beauty Granite which is about 30 min from Bangor.

There is also some bouldering in Bar Harbour Me.

In Rumney you are getting Primo sport climbing and bouldering. But beware of the crowds. at only 1.5 hour drive from Boston, Rumney is a place you want to hit on Week days, not a weekend especially this time of year.

You can buy the Rumney Guidebook at the local climbing gym or even at a gear shop in Bar Harbour etc.

North Conway has some sport climbing on WhiteHorse Slabs, but be prepared for old school grades and RUN OUTS.

If you wanted to trad climb there is amazing climbing at Presipice wall in Bar Harbour, some in Clifton and also of couse, most of North Conway on Cathedral Ledge and Whitehorse slabs.

have fun!!!!
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Postby Fred » Wed Jun 29, 2005 9:21 am

Martha pretty much covered it but here is a site

http://www.newenglandbouldering.com

Also, not in US but close to border is St-Andrews. Enough to keep you busy for 2-3 days of climbing. 95% sport and some bouldering.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby tracstarr » Wed Jun 29, 2005 10:08 am

cool. i'll be hitting the 'buzy spots' during the week. i'm hoping to hit welsford for a day then cross the border. hitting clifton, camden, patuckaway and rumney for sure.
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Postby Fred » Wed Jun 29, 2005 10:28 am

sounds like a good trip. If you want a tour of the good sport routes in Welsford drop me a line.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Jamie Simpson » Thu Jun 30, 2005 6:39 pm

Cara - I think 'sport' is maybe a little generous for the Whitehorse slab routes...? how about crazy run-out trad climbs with a bolt if you're lucky ; ) But they are really fun.

If you get waylaid near St. Andrews I'd be happy to climb with you here.

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Postby dcentral » Thu Jun 30, 2005 7:58 pm

Don't Forget North Conway is an outlet town so there are all kinds of deals to be had.
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Postby martha » Fri Jul 01, 2005 5:09 pm

Jamie Simpson wrote:Cara - I think 'sport' is maybe a little generous for the Whitehorse slab routes...? how about crazy run-out trad climbs with a bolt if you're lucky ; ) But they are really fun.

If you get waylaid near St. Andrews I'd be happy to climb with you here.

Jamie


Well, I did mention how run out they are. hehehe. they have a bolt if you are lucky, and i was thinking of 'Sliding Board' in particular. somewhat of a 'sport route'. but i'd rather jump off a bridge than lead that nightmare anyday!!! I've heard enough horror stories and epics on that one!!

Yes!! dcentral!! you've got it!! Outlets Galore, and only 45 min from freeport where there are a lot more places to shop too...like the North Face outlet! woooot!!!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

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