Bolt added on Poche 5.11

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Bolt added on Poche 5.11

Postby Dom » Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:38 am

Hey,

For the 5-10% who climb at Welsford that have been on this route (I may be exaggerating, it may be less :mrgreen: ), I added a bolt to eliminate the deck-fall potential between the 3rd and 4th bolt. This is a sport route so in my opinion there was no need to have such a run-out. I communicated my views with the FAist (Ghislain Zig) and he gave me the go-ahead. I also scrubbed it a bit... So get on it!
Also, 5.11c might be more appropriate as a grade.

The Attic is such a wonderful wall. With the addition of Hitchhiker, it makes it that much better. So if you climb 5.10,5.11 SPORT and have never been there what are you waiting for?? :wink: The cliff also dries up much faster than the Upper Tier.

BTW for the sport climbers that won't climb Joint Venture because it's mix, the route is all bolted except for the last 15ft which is on 5.5 terrain. A 0.3 BD to #1BD fits in the crack up there. Nuts would probably work as well but running it out is also not scary at all.
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Bolt added on Poche 5.11

Postby Fred » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:13 pm

Has anyone other than Marty and I climbed Hitchhiker?

Good job on adding the bolt Dom. Poche is a sweet climb. I also agree with 5.11c.

Quiet should also be changed to 5.12a or 5.12b IMO.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Bolt added on Poche 5.11

Postby Dom » Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:28 am

Fred wrote:Has anyone other than Marty and I climbed Hitchhiker?



Yeah a few people, myself included have climbed it. I think it's more of a 5.11a than a 5.11b? If I compare to 8 four 7, I find Hitchhiker easier...Anyways that's my opinion. It's a 3 star climb for sure though and really well bolted. Good job Fred!

Also, the day I climbed Hitchhiker, I also climbed Agent Orange and Réchauffement for the first time.
Agent Orange has some really cool move in that roof/ramp feature. I really enjoyed it!
Réchauffement looks like crap from the bottom but climbs really nice. I actually had no intention on climbing it and Terry and Franca recommended it. Glad they did. I'll be on it again. I also expected it to be a sandbag because of the name (Whoever has climbed Réchauffement in Kamou will understand) but it wasn't too bad. Furthermore, the best part about climbing Fred routes, is you know they will be clean!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Bolt added on Poche 5.11

Postby cory » Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:33 am

Dom wrote: the best part about climbing Fred routes, is you know they will be clean!

Absolultely!
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Re: Bolt added on Poche 5.11

Postby Fred » Thu Jul 05, 2012 5:39 pm

Rechauffement is a pretty chossy thing IMO. Definitely not my proudest route. Wasn't the best rock quality for bolting either so there are a couple hard clips at the bottom.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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