Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

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Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Dom » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:27 am

So I climbed Space Invaders for the first time at Greenlaw yesterday. I had heard that the 12b grade was contrived and I agree. Why would you not use the jugs if they are close to the bolts. Anyways, Those that have climbed, what do you think the grade should be? I'd say 5.11a? Just want to get a consensus as the next guidebook edition should reflect the non-contrived grade IMO.

Also, hopped on Top Gun. That move between the 3rd and 4 bolts is hard! I think it's only seen three ascents (John Bowles and PJ, Jon Adamson) Anyone else? Anyways, did you guys go left after the 3rd bolt or right up underneath where Adam trundled a block and it left rockfall residue with small crimps. Cool route and I'll be back for the send (hopefully hehe) :mrgreen:

If you plan on going to Greenlaw in the upcoming weeks, rubber boots are recommended!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby PeterA » Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:59 am

I would agree with a grade of 11ish for space invaders

As for top gun, I couldn't say. The route that Jon and I thought was top gun was actually grand theft project.

-PJ
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Adam » Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:38 pm

yeah i think i gave space invaders 11b since i used the jugs
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Fred » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:25 pm

I think I had my horse blinders on that day. :)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby john » Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:14 pm

I don't think anyone has repeated or tried top gun much. For me it is a bit harder then grand theft but it was soaked when I did it and I recall going straight up on crimps, grand theft it much better
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Dom » Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:45 am

Cool, ya I sent Grand Theft in April. The start is very sequency and nice. I think Top Gun has a harder crux for sure.
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Adam » Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:31 am

there is room for one more route btw these two lines, and it looks awesome. just gonna take a lot of cleaning.
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby PeterA » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:39 pm

Jumped on Top Gun this weekend. I ended up traversing right at the 3rd bolt, going straight up, then cutting back left to the 4th bolt. Super fun climbing, but the bolts are in weird spots unfortunately. I found that I had to hang a long draw on the 4th bolt so I could clip it from lower, rather than go through my sequence with only the 3rd clipped

-PJ
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Dom » Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:41 pm

PeterA wrote:Jumped on Top Gun this weekend. I ended up traversing right at the 3rd bolt, going straight up, then cutting back left to the 4th bolt. Super fun climbing, but the bolts are in weird spots unfortunately. I found that I had to hang a long draw on the 4th bolt so I could clip it from lower, rather than go through my sequence with only the 3rd clipped

-PJ


We were in Greenlaw today.
I agree with PJ that the bolts (especially the 3rd bolt) is in a weird spot. I'd move it right.

Adam/John are you guys against this bolt modification? No bolts would be added, just the 3rd one moved.
let me know, and I can do the modification next time I'm there. I can even scrub the very dirty top part too. :mrgreen:
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Adam » Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:23 am

Dom wrote:Adam/John are you guys against this bolt modification? No bolts would be added, just the 3rd one moved.
let me know, and I can do the modification next time I'm there. I can even scrub the very dirty top part too. :mrgreen:


totally fine with me.
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Dom » Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:34 pm

I fixed the 3rd bolt on Top Gun on Saturday. Climbs nice and super safe now.

Space Invader's big hardwood tree has to go. It's definitely in the way as Sonia nailed it on Saturday. Chainsaw anyone?
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby john » Sat Jun 08, 2013 1:34 am

maybe the climb should go not the 50 year old tree?

if you lead it you wont hit it
isnt it on private land
there are lots of trees you hit if you dont protect a tr or a seconds swing
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby *Chris* » Sat Jun 08, 2013 9:08 am

john wrote:maybe the climb should go not the 50 year old tree?

if you lead it you wont hit it
isnt it on private land
there are lots of trees you hit if you dont protect a tr or a seconds swing
Actually, the leader fell while committing to get into the crux. She bounced her back off the tree while falling. Strait down... no swing. It was nasty. I'd suggest not dismissing it if you weren't actually there to see it.

The crag is privately owned. However given the selective logging that's occurred adjacent to the cliff I expect that they are not oversensitive about it. I think the best approach would be to contact and ask for permission.
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Re: Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

Postby Adam » Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:39 pm

*Chris* wrote:The crag is privately owned. However given the selective logging that's occurred adjacent to the cliff I expect that they are not oversensitive about it. I think the best approach would be to contact and ask for permission.


if that one goes... would love to see the one by Scurvy go.... tho it is even bigger and prob older... and would be a hell of a clean up. but dang there's a nice line waiting behind it! :)
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