Climbing In the Rain

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Climbing In the Rain

Postby IanLingley » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:10 am

Me and Eric Samis have just completed a new climb on a new wall at eagle rock, we named the climb Welcome to Welsford and it is completely over hanging so it never gets wet.
Other than leviathan with the right wind condition anyone know of other climbs in N.B that can be climbed in the rain?
IanLingley
 
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:09 am

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby esamis » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:52 am

I certainly don't know any other NB route that you can get super pumped on ... in the rain!!
Even if it wasn't protected from the rain by the climbing gods it would easily still be one of my favourite routes. On top of that, it takes good gear. I know because I've fallen on most of the smallest pieces. (and they held) :)
esamis
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:07 am

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby PeterA » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:54 am

The entire St. George wall stays dry in the rain, it justs needs some routes on it.

Cheekbone corner can be done in the rain as well (depending on wind)
User avatar
PeterA
 
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:33 pm

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby IanLingley » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:58 am

Ya, I've never thought about cheekbone corner, that would be cool to do in the rain.
IanLingley
 
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:09 am

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby Dom » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:59 am

Access denied will stay dry in the rain.

As for cheekbone, I never would've thought of that route for a ''stays dry route''. The first part might stay dry but everything after pigeon crap ledge will be wet I believe.
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby PeterA » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:02 pm

Dom wrote:Access denied will stay dry in the rain.

As for cheekbone, I never would've thought of that route for a ''stays dry route''. The first part might stay dry but everything after pigeon crap ledge will be wet I believe.


I've done it in the rain before where the only wet part was when you turn the corner at the top and come out from the overhang. I suppose this isn't far after pigeon ledge
User avatar
PeterA
 
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:33 pm

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby esamis » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:04 pm

St. George Wall? I heard something a while ago about this. do enlighten me as to the where-abouts of this. who knows, I may want to take a run out there some day
esamis
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:07 am

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby Dom » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:06 pm

PeterA wrote:
Dom wrote:Access denied will stay dry in the rain.

As for cheekbone, I never would've thought of that route for a ''stays dry route''. The first part might stay dry but everything after pigeon crap ledge will be wet I believe.


I've done it in the rain before where the only wet part was when you turn the corner at the top and come out from the overhang. I suppose this isn't far after pigeon ledge




Yup this would be the last 20' on 5.5 or so. I might try it next time it's raining hehe
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby PeterA » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:09 pm

We called it Utopia. Its just outside of st george (highway 170 I think?). I don't know the area very well, I just drive there on instinct. I believe you take the exit for lake utopia (coming from SJ). Follow that into St. george, take a right at the corner with the liquor store. The cliff will become obvious on your left. Pull into an old quarry, park and walk in.

There are multiple cliffs in this area. Utopia has a huge amount of potential, with routes from 5.6 to 5.14. If your drive farther down the highway, there is another cliff on the left called Bonnie River. It has a lot of nice vertical to slabby lines, all very long. Lots of potential here too.

-PJ
User avatar
PeterA
 
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:33 pm

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby esamis » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:56 pm

I like how you know to reference at least one liquor store in your directions. and thanks, I will definitely have to check that out soon. I'll let you know if I end up putting up any lines.
esamis
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:07 am

Re: Climbing In the Rain

Postby *Chris* » Wed Aug 01, 2012 1:06 pm

esamis wrote:St. George Wall? I heard something a while ago about this. do enlighten me as to the where-abouts of this. who knows, I may want to take a run out there some day
I have Utopia indicated on a map I maintain: here

Also, I climbed all afternoon in the showers at Cochrane lane on Sunday. I managed to stay comfortable climbing on gear up to 5.9. I'm sure you gentlemen could manage 5.11.
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 52 guests

cron