Grandpa's Demise

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Grandpa's Demise

Postby Dom » Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:40 pm

Did something break on the initial moves? That was the crux for sure, yet it says 5.9 for the first pitch in the guidebook and 5.10a for the 2nd pitch?
Climbed it in one pitch and didn't have any issues with drag. It makes for a nice long pitch!
The 2nd part is awesome, the 1st not so much hehe!
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Grandpa's Demise

Postby STeveA » Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:50 am

The first pitch was more scarry than hard, especially as the first bolt was placed well after the first few ascents. A large block at the bottom has fallen since the first ascent, however I don't think it affects the grade. However, it is possible than something else could have come off.
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
User avatar
STeveA
 
Posts: 570
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:07 am

Re: Grandpa's Demise

Postby Dom » Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:38 am

Yup that would be really scary without the first bolt. Glad it's there.
I wonder how many people have climbed this route in the last 5 years?
Not only is the climbing superb on the upper face, but the view is magical up there. I'm pretty sure it brings you to the tallest 'climbing' point in Cochrane Lane.

Siren Song a very long, rarely repeated 5.8 G also ends on the GD anchor. I think such a nice moderate route deserves more traffic!
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Grandpa's Demise

Postby motanb » Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:36 am

Grandpa's is definitely a classic! Seems like it doesn't receive as much traffic as it warrants. Perhaps b/c it is a wee bit run-out on the upper section;) And yes, the initial moves off the deck are spicy and technical for 5.9. Like Steve says, there was rock exfoliation which changed the character significantly at the beginning. So in its current state, those moves are likely 10b-ish?

I've definitely climbed Grandpa's within the last five years; when I was cleaning and bolting "Let Freedom Ring" (another must do), I couldn't resist revisiting Grandpa's. Although the gear is good and bolts where ya need 'em, I find the climb to be psychologically demanding, and consequently all the more satisfying to send! :D
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests

cron