Help wanted to bolt a route

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Help wanted to bolt a route

Postby F Côté » Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:50 pm

Is there anyone who would have a drill (or access to one) who would like to help me bolt a route I cleaned off at the Attic in Cochrane Lane. I cleaned off the route last fall but never got the chance to bolt it. I have bolts, hangers, and a drill bit. I put a lot of work into cleaning this route so please be respectful and wait till its done and bolted before climbing it.
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Re: Help wanted to bolt a route

Postby theriault » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:02 am

I saw a line that was scrubbed this weekend, next to Porcupine BBQ, i think its the line your talking about .... there's 2 things i don't understand and am curious about...
1- where does it start? the bottom did not seem scrubbed
2- mid height, are you planing to avoid the obvious dihedral? seems to be the nice natural line up there but that part was not scrubbed....

curious because it looks like a nice line
Marty
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Re: Help wanted to bolt a route

Postby F Côté » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:10 am

Yup thats the line. The route would share the first bolt of Porcupine BBQ and then keep going up and right following a clear line with some underclings. I had tried the start down and to the right making it a completely independant route, but couldn't get anywhere on that cuz it was ridiculously difficult. To share the first bolt with Porcupine BBQ makes the difficulty more consistent throughout.
As for the dihedral part way up, i will need to look at that again. Dom had mentioned the same thing a while back. When I toproped it in the moss I followed what seemed to be the natural flow of the route, but I will look at it again and I might need to clean the dihedral if its the more logical way to climb that part of the route.
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Re: Help wanted to bolt a route

Postby theriault » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:37 am

F Côté wrote:. To share the first bolt with Porcupine BBQ makes the difficulty more consistent throughout.


I think routes should be as independent as possible, if the start is to hard why not leave it to a stronger climber instead of having yet an other variation route, there's plenty of room between Hitchhiker and BBQ.... and for route consistency, it doesn't really apply outside, a route will either fallow a natural feature (weakness, dyke, crack...) or be a nice straight line.... difficulty will be determined afterwards...

this is my opinion, my 2 cents and in no way a rule hahah
Marty
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