Ice Season 2013/2014

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Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Tue Nov 12, 2013 11:13 am

Motivation for Ice is already high in my heart! Here's good news for all the optimists in our small ice community!


http://www.farmersalmanac.com/long-rang ... ck-quebec/

Good season everyone!!!
Marty
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:37 am

Season is officially On! Luc and I climbed a couple of ice pitches in Parlee brook in a night session, Nov 22nd (Friday) the Conditions are horrible, leave your ice screws at home for now.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Sat Nov 23, 2013 12:24 pm

Forgot to mention, the road from the Abby to the camp has been redone with a bulldozer! They did an amazing job!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:03 pm

Nov 24: Parlee Brook, thing's are shaping up nicely. It felt like a January day today, -10 and lots of snow and wind! Beautifull! Three Amigos, KF Gully and Yellow Pillar where all led. All the King's Horses was also in good shape. Blue Pillar and the Back Wall where very close to be doable. Keep in mind that I'm only saying doable (very very thin), they should still be consider OUT in normal Ice lingo, only 10cm screws and some tied off 13cm where used.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Stacey » Wed Nov 27, 2013 11:40 am

theriault wrote:Forgot to mention, the road from the Abby to the camp has been redone with a bulldozer! They did an amazing job!



wow - this is amazing!!!!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby HDW » Fri Nov 29, 2013 2:58 pm

anyone been to welsford yet?
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Fri Nov 29, 2013 4:11 pm

HDW wrote:anyone been to welsford yet?


Welsford ice is still far away... Only Parlee and Glebe have early season ice.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby HDW » Fri Nov 29, 2013 7:45 pm

:cry:
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:24 pm

Nov 30 : Parlee brook if "fatning", I spent the day there and climb a bunch of stuff!!!! I even got to climb a free standing pillar on the Back Wall! Sick early season Ice!!!! The ice is in great shape and accepting good screws on a lot of routes! Hullholmes is even close to being doable! No excuses anymore! Get swinging!
I also predict that there's some climbable stuff in Glebe.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:09 am

Dec 8 : Parlee Brook still growing... 90% IN, yes IN as in taking 16-19cm screws! The water flow from last week helped it big time! This is officially the best season start in years!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby gwa » Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:04 pm

Took my gear for a walk today. We headed into the Glebe to check things out. Can drive all the way in with a car - roads are great. Lots of ice forming up but it looked too wet and thin for us to climb. Soon though. It was my first time to this place and I was really impressed by how beautiful it is in there. Thanks to those who flagged and trimmed the trail.

I have photos but couldn't upload them.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby theriault » Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:31 pm

Dec 9: Went for an Ice recon in the Welsford valley (CL, Eagle Rock, S. Road cut and the Quarry) , Everything is forming but very thin, still got to climb two great pitches on thin ice and mix terrain! If the weather sticks to the cold they are forecasting, im confidant that a lot of routes will be in good shape this weekend in the valley!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Dom » Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:36 pm

To posts picture you need to post them on another website such as picasa or a blog. After, copy and paste the url link as an IMG found above in your CEC Post and voilà.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby max » Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:44 am

Did a re-con off the coast ice around Sackville. I climbed 2 routes in Rockport, 10 routes in Cape Maringouin and 3 in Dorchester. All routes WI3-WI4. I would say nothing is in per-say but like Marty said with this awesome forecast things will be in great shape in no time! Excited to be swing the tools!

I climbed 3 new routes:
Rockport(Peck Point)
Turco WI3 8m
FA Max Fisher solo Dec. 2013
As you walk down the beach and the cliff gradually gets bigger a thin flow traverses from right to left. about 100m west of Sunbaked.

Cape Maringouin
Aguja WI3 15m
FA Max Fisher solo. Dec. 2013
Found near the further end of the beach just past Raining Ice. Thin start and turf top out.

El Condor WI3 15m
FA Max Fisher solo Dec 2013
Left of Sore feet is a small gulley like feature climb it.

These routes has never fully formed in the past so thanks to the rain and this cold spell!

I'll post pictures on Ascent NB Facebook page so you can see the conditions for yourself.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby max » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:28 pm

Lucas and I headed into Parlee today. Things are in pretty great shape! We climbed 3 Amigos, All the Kings Horses,Yellow Pillar and Blue Pillar.... which where all led. It was cold and there was a lot of dinner plates flying! Not all the routes are ready to take 16cm screws.... that said I feel Parlee is definitely IN.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Greg » Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:54 pm

Four of us climbed at Dorchester Cape yesterday. Conditions were good. Two lines were led. Pro was adequate - up to 16 cm screws throughout. At least two more lines were leadable. Dorchester is a great spot if you want to stay in the sun on a cold day!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Greg » Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:19 pm

Did anyone make it in to Parlee or Glebe this weekend?
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby STeveA » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:51 am

Lucas and I were into Parlee on Saturday. -20 without the wind chill. Very cold and nothing was flowing. The ice was okay but hard. We were able to drive all the way in, but that was before the snow. Hullholmes looked fat.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby rckclmr » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:38 pm

Can someone send directions to Parlee.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Greg » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:01 pm

rckclmr wrote:Can someone send directions to Parlee.

Buy Joe's guidebook...........best $10 you'll ever spend ;)
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby *Chris* » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:23 pm

Greg wrote:
rckclmr wrote:Can someone send directions to Parlee.

Buy Joe's guidebook...........best $10 you'll ever spend ;)
This link will show you how to get there... but it certainly does not replace Joe's guidebook.

http://ascentnb.com/nb-ice/
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Shawn B » Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:50 pm

rckclmr wrote:Can someone send directions to Parlee.

Your first time there...best if you follow someone who's been there before. Lots of people have gone armed with descriptions and maps and wandered aimlessly only to return without climbing...and complain about the directions. Snowshoe tracks if there hasn't been recent snow might help some. And ditto to supporting the guide book author by buying the guide...he's getting old and is putting proceeds towards the purchase of a cane.
Safety third!!!
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby max » Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:17 pm

Dorchester is IN! Climbed 3 routes there today. It is fat and water is still running. definitely 16-19cm screw accepted and there are a few lines that are IN that are FA's for the people willing to go get them. There is 1 pillar that is WI5, and other lines in the same range that are steep, technical and sustained! Pretty psyched on how DC is shaping up!! Max
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby SamJ » Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:12 pm

Went to Mt.Misery today. Things are starting to shape up pretty good. Top roped 3 routes. There are a few others that looked good. If you would like to see any pictures e-mail me. livedotcalm@live.com or through fb.

- Sam Jones
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Stacey » Thu Dec 19, 2013 11:16 am

rckclmr wrote:Can someone send directions to Parlee.


I think Chris Norfolk & Anders have had the MOST success in 'finding' Parlee :lol:
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby Dom » Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:09 pm

Not sure the Ice Conditions sticky is used much but a head's up that I will not be updating it. There are motivated ice climbers that can take care of it or we can get rid of it altogether.

I will be deleting it in one week on December 27th unless someone steps up.

Happy Holidays.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby JLevandier » Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:27 pm

I'll be in Willow Grove (just past the Saint John airport) for the holiday season beginning tomorrow. If anyone is in the area looking for a climbing partner I'm all in! I've got my gear packed and look forward to climbing some new-to-me routes with some new folks. Send me a message!

- Joel
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby max » Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:37 pm

Climbed in Dorchester with Luc today. Ice is in awesome shape. 3 lines lead WI3-WI4+.
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby JLevandier » Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:43 pm

Climb tomorrow anyone?
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Re: Ice Season 2013/2014

Postby max » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:40 pm

Greg Hughes, Cory Hall, Luc Gallant and I headed out to St. Martins yesterday to see what the Controls/Fit2Btide where in. We found Fit2Btide to be in and most other routes pretty much in... challenging mixed, delaminated, or lock off starts. After we also looked west about 300m and found some beautiful 70m WI5, WI4+, WI4 and 4+.

WI 5 70m FA Cory Hall & Greg Hughes
WI4+ 70m FA Max Fisher & Luc Gallant
WI4+ 70m FA Greg Hughes & Cory Hall
WI4 70m FA Luc Gallant & Max Fisher

I'll post a picture or 2 on Ascent NB
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