New Route Attic

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New Route Attic

Postby F Côté » Fri Aug 14, 2015 5:54 pm

Little Spoon 5.11a 13m/S(4)/b(2)
FA: F. Côté, K. Demolitor 2015
Found at the right end of the main Attic face, 3m right of Poche. Climb the crimpy face, trending left after the second bolt, then straight up past a small ledge to the anchors. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

Note: there is currently a closed project immediately to the right of this route (with white tat on first bolt) which is not yet fully cleaned or bolted.

Fun movement. Shorter than its neighbouring routes as the cliff begins to taper at this point. There is a good stick near the base of the climb for stick clipping.
I would appreciate feedback on the route and grade from anyone who goes up there to climb it. Enjoy!
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Re: New Route Attic

Postby Dom » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:45 am

I climbed it on Sunday. It was raining but 90% of the route stayed dry. It's a fun sequency route. Grade seems fair.

I broke off a section of the diagonal crimp rail (left of 2nd bolt) when using it as a foothold. I went for a nice ride and landed 3 feet from the ground haha.

I climbed it again after and I don't think this made the route any harder.
So much rock, so little time
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Re: New Route Attic

Postby sloaner » Tue Oct 13, 2015 2:17 pm

I think this climb is a little height biased against shorter people. Seb and I both thought it was easier than an 11a (we both thought 10c/10d). Watching some other people hop on it who were not ~6 feet it looked like it added a couple of hard moves.
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Re: New Route Attic

Postby alecmanley » Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:01 pm

I also climbed it on Sunday can see how being taller makes it easier but agree its hard 10 or 11a but it has cool movement through the boulderie crux.

It should probably be mentioned in the description that one should stay left at the 3rd bolt (as you can't see the 4th from the ground or the 3rd bolt) instead of following the juicy undercling flake to the right like I did and ending up on the other route and in no man's land.
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