Kingston - Agamemnon

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Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby julienr78 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 9:53 am

The nut on the second bolt on Agamemnon is loose, I was able to move it with my fingers. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools to tighten it (I now have a wrench in with my gear).

Quick question, what do you usually do in that case? Tighten it up as hard as you can with your fingers or remove it altogether? I screwed it in as hard as I could with my fingers, then downclimbed.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby F Côté » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:45 pm

I would personally do exactly what you did: get it as finger tight as possible and let people know
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Dom » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:20 am

Finger tight and you can keep climbing on it. It's not rare to encounter loose nuts on sport routes. For instance, the crux hanger on Dihelio at Sunnyside is always loose...

A wrench is useful to have.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:58 am

Dom wrote:the crux hanger on Dihelio at Sunnyside is always loose...


is it still? i replaced that bolt last year. was hoping that would resolve the issue!
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Dom » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:01 pm

Adam wrote:
Dom wrote:the crux hanger on Dihelio at Sunnyside is always loose...


is it still? i replaced that bolt last year. was hoping that would resolve the issue!


Yes I noticed that. It's not as bad as it used to be but the few times I climbed it this year, that hanger was loose. I think it's because of the angle.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Greg » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:36 am

julienr78 wrote:The nut on the second bolt on Agamemnon is loose, I was able to move it with my fingers. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools to tighten it (I now have a wrench in with my gear).

Quick question, what do you usually do in that case? Tighten it up as hard as you can with your fingers or remove it altogether? I screwed it in as hard as I could with my fingers, then downclimbed.

Yes hand tighten while climbing and then hopefully tighten with a wrench after you have a top rope set up. Most sport climbing destinations will have at least a few hangers that need to be re-tightened so it is not a bad idea to carry a wrench in your pack. A 9/16 or 14 mm wrench should fit. Give it a three quarter turn beyond finger tight. That should keep it tight for a while depending on its location and position.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Adam » Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:07 am

Dom wrote:
Adam wrote:Yes I noticed that. It's not as bad as it used to be but the few times I climbed it this year, that hanger was loose. I think it's because of the angle.


guess it just sees a lot of action. sounds like it needs some loctite.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby PeterA » Sat Aug 29, 2015 5:40 pm

Greg wrote:
julienr78 wrote:The nut on the second bolt on Agamemnon is loose, I was able to move it with my fingers. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools to tighten it (I now have a wrench in with my gear).

Quick question, what do you usually do in that case? Tighten it up as hard as you can with your fingers or remove it altogether? I screwed it in as hard as I could with my fingers, then downclimbed.

Yes hand tighten while climbing and then hopefully tighten with a wrench after you have a top rope set up. Most sport climbing destinations will have at least a few hangers that need to be re-tightened so it is not a bad idea to carry a wrench in your pack. A 9/16 or 14 mm wrench should fit. Give it a three quarter turn beyond finger tight. That should keep it tight for a while depending on its location and position.


Might be important to note that you should be careful not to overtighten the bolt, which can cause damage to the bolt

-PJ
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby Adam » Wed Sep 02, 2015 12:48 pm

PeterA wrote:
Greg wrote:
julienr78 wrote:The nut on the second bolt on Agamemnon is loose, I was able to move it with my fingers. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools to tighten it (I now have a wrench in with my gear).

Quick question, what do you usually do in that case? Tighten it up as hard as you can with your fingers or remove it altogether? I screwed it in as hard as I could with my fingers, then downclimbed.

Yes hand tighten while climbing and then hopefully tighten with a wrench after you have a top rope set up. Most sport climbing destinations will have at least a few hangers that need to be re-tightened so it is not a bad idea to carry a wrench in your pack. A 9/16 or 14 mm wrench should fit. Give it a three quarter turn beyond finger tight. That should keep it tight for a while depending on its location and position.


Might be important to note that you should be careful not to overtighten the bolt, which can cause damage to the bolt

-PJ


personally, i would advise to NOT tighten it 3/4 turn past finger tightness UNLESS you are installing for the FIRST TIME. if the nut gets loose post initial install, i would suggest add a drop of loctite, then go finger tightness then a 1/16 to 1/8 turn with a wrench. over-tightening is easy to do so be gentle! :)

honestly even the first time 3/4 seems like a lot for initial installation. really, our community should have access to a torque wrench! they're kinda expensive but would take the guess work out of it.
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Re: Kingston - Agamemnon

Postby chossmonkey » Wed Dec 28, 2016 8:59 am

Adam wrote:
PeterA wrote:
Greg wrote:
julienr78 wrote:The nut on the second bolt on Agamemnon is loose, I was able to move it with my fingers. Unfortunately, I didn't have any tools to tighten it (I now have a wrench in with my gear).

Quick question, what do you usually do in that case? Tighten it up as hard as you can with your fingers or remove it altogether? I screwed it in as hard as I could with my fingers, then downclimbed.

Yes hand tighten while climbing and then hopefully tighten with a wrench after you have a top rope set up. Most sport climbing destinations will have at least a few hangers that need to be re-tightened so it is not a bad idea to carry a wrench in your pack. A 9/16 or 14 mm wrench should fit. Give it a three quarter turn beyond finger tight. That should keep it tight for a while depending on its location and position.


Might be important to note that you should be careful not to overtighten the bolt, which can cause damage to the bolt

-PJ


personally, i would advise to NOT tighten it 3/4 turn past finger tightness UNLESS you are installing for the FIRST TIME. if the nut gets loose post initial install, i would suggest add a drop of loctite, then go finger tightness then a 1/16 to 1/8 turn with a wrench. over-tightening is easy to do so be gentle! :)

honestly even the first time 3/4 seems like a lot for initial installation. really, our community should have access to a torque wrench! they're kinda expensive but would take the guess work out of it.


good thoughts! in limestone the advice I give people is 1/4 turn past finger tight. Nylon lock nuts mat be a good solution. Just make sure they are SS if they are going on SS bolts.
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