Help identifying routes

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Help identifying routes

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:51 pm

The kids and I had a great day playing on Border Wall last week, but I could not place the routes in the guide book with the actual rock. Peter, John and I climbed several lines that were all distinct and worth noting. I have posted a photo at http://mteverest.myip.org/climbing/rock ... Result.jpg
and would appreciate feedback based on the numbers on the photo. Also, does anyone know if the overhang on the right has been led. It was dirty, but took good pro. It went at 5.9 and we labelled it Tall Order.
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Postby Fred » Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:44 am

wow that doesn't look like Border Wall at all. hehe Funny how a photo can throw you off eh.

I'll check the guidebook later. Everything on that wall has pretty much been done except maybe the roof on the right you speak of. The lines are hard to pick out without a description. Although there is a 5.7 crack out that way that I have never been able to find.

Basically the easiest path up the middle (free for all) is called "Up Up and Away 5.4". Then you have an unnamed 5.6 to the right that I led a few summers ago and was toproped prior. To the left of "Up Up and away" you have a 5.8 R called "Fingers and Toes" (I think) and then a 5.10 just left of that. All routes are pretty general since the wall offers much variation.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Matt Peck » Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:06 pm

Yeah, I couldn't figure that stuff out either. I hiked up the diagonal 5.4 (number 8) until the first horizontal crack, and then just climbed straight up through the blocky stuff. Probably about a 5.5 with the last move being a bit of a reach from a tiny cam. I also did the 6 you are talking about Fred, but the rest was greek to me.
That roof looks kinda cool if it were clean. We should post more of these picks for clarity, though that would take away from the adventure ( I remember hopping on what I though was a 5.6 + that actually was one of Ulysse's projects higher up a couple of years ago because of a mixup)
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Postby Fred » Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:22 pm

there will surely be more topos added to the next edition of the guidebook. Many walls require topos for clarity. The Gallery is a perfect example. Took me a while to work out all those lines and I'm still unsure about a few of them. Over time these things will iron themselves out. hopefully...
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Fred » Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:23 pm

p.s. that 5.6 on the right side of Up up and away is actually a nice introductory lead.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Andrew » Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:22 pm

...If anyone finds that 5.7 that's supposed to be a ways away to the right of the main Border Wall, please post in here some description or photos. I was wondering about that as well.

....somtimes harder that climbing the route itself is actually trying to find the route, so I've found in some cases.

climb on.
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