route in amphitheatre

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route in amphitheatre

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 29, 2005 12:46 pm

when I was belaying John up Cheekbone the other day I got looking over to the Amphitheatre and checking out route potential. There is one route in question that I'd like to know if it has gone free. It's on the same side as Rockstarr and Valkeries. It's uphill from Valkeries about the same distance as VAlkeries is from Rockstar. Almost at the right end but not really. Anywho. It's this perfect vertical (what looked like fist size) crack that finishes on a tiny ledge below a tiny roof and it looks like the route could potentialy trend up and right from there up some laybacking crack stuff. The bottom part looks incredible. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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you are baiting me

Postby john » Mon Aug 29, 2005 11:10 pm

Fred you know thats lockees revenge and I cleaned it for a free attampt on aid a couple weeks ago and haven't been back since. Any takers, go for it a very nice route!
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Postby Fred » Mon Aug 29, 2005 11:13 pm

oh right! whoops... sorry man. Well I doubt anyone will get on it before you do man. I thought Lockees was left of there. Anywho the crack looks wicked but the second pitch looks crazy. Is there a bolt belay at the top of that fist crack? How hard is the first pitch?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby john » Tue Aug 30, 2005 8:50 am

The is an anchor half way up which will be skipped for the free ascent due to a loose but needed block near the top that if it fell would definitly kill the belayer. If belayed from the ground if the block fell which is highly unlikly the belayer would be well protected in the cave. The first pitch is 5.10 and the second is much harder, tree belay at the top no bolts will be added 3 pitons from previous aid climbs and one I left on lead
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Postby Fred » Tue Aug 30, 2005 9:01 am

so if one wanted to they could climb the first pitch and rap off? It looks stellar. Does it finish right at the top of that beautifull crack?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Loki's revenge

Postby STeveA » Thu Sep 01, 2005 1:58 pm

The route is called Loki's Revenge for those of you who know your Norse mythology. It was top roped the same weekend that it was aided. Ian MacDonald free climbed the first pitch and it goes at about 5.9. Now that the cracks are clean of crud it should prove to be a nice free climb, although the loose block on the second pitch make make the rap off the top of the first more popular.
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