New variation

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New variation

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 29, 2005 12:48 pm

New variation to About A Rope. Start 15 left of the original start and climb straight up. This route connects with About A Rope directly below the crux.


no gear for first 30ft and then nice gear and layback flake just below the About a Rope Traverse that leads to the crux. 5.7ish climbing (R)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby mathieu » Mon Aug 29, 2005 1:12 pm

So that makes it a V1? Isn't V1 equivalent to 10+
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Postby Fred » Mon Aug 29, 2005 1:21 pm

depends if ur wearing Prana or not
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Postby Shawn B » Mon Aug 29, 2005 4:02 pm

This has been done before. Multiple times I would guess. I remember the first time I did it thinking it was not done before. Can't remember who. Was graded 5.6. I'm sure there are a number of ways you can wander up that. I remember nice climbing but some of the flakes being a little suspect. They were pretty hollow...and pretty large. Did you start right in the corner where you can scramble up to Minkey or further left of that?
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Postby Fred » Mon Aug 29, 2005 4:21 pm

yeah you start right in the corner where you can climb up to Minkey. It goes straight up. Then about 30ft off the deck there is a large left facing corner which turn into a small hollow flake at teh top. We both cranked on it and it seemed ok for pulling anyways. Anywho. Just a fun little variation if ur looking for something different. Cheers!
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Stef » Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:26 am

Rob and I scrubbed and climbed this yeasterday thinking we were bagging an FA... Damn it...show'd have known better. :D Anyway the direct way is nice and clean now. Nice climbing, but the pro sucks. The lower crux isn't protected at all.

Cheers,

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Postby Fred » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:53 am

Stef wrote:Rob and I scrubbed and climbed this yeasterday thinking we were bagging an FA... Damn it...show'd have known better. :D Anyway the direct way is nice and clean now. Nice climbing, but the pro sucks. The lower crux isn't protected at all.

Cheers,

Stef


Yeah I didn't find much pro untill I got under that left facing corner. Then good pro in the corner. And I remember correctly there was a thin suspect flake at the top of that corner? Is this the route you took?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Stef » Mon Nov 21, 2005 11:32 am

Yup, from the ledge above the corner at the left end of pyramid. I went straight up a crack to the top of a big free-standing block. Then up a nice curving rail and flakes (crux) to the left-facing corner with a thin flake at the top. I really reefed on that thin flake on rap, I don't think it is going anywhere. Nice route, but bad fall potential as there is nothing to stop you from hitting the free standing block if you come off.
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Postby Fred » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:05 pm

It's an interesting variation to "About A Rope" for sure. I found the gear to be good once you get to the left facing corner/flake system. Although Shawn says this variation has been done before I don't know how they placed gear since I cleaned the crack out for the first time this summer. There is no way you could have placed gear in it before the cleaning. I suspect he trended right at that flake/corner to meet up with "About A Rope" somewhere below the traverse.

This variation meets up directly down and left of the crux of "About A Rope" literaly.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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