Itchy on Pink Panther?

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Itchy on Pink Panther?

Postby Jamie Simpson » Tue Sep 06, 2005 6:41 am

Climbing on Pink Panther yesterday and noticed a nice patch of poison ivy to the right of the belay ledge, about 5 feet below the bolt. You can step around the plants, but if you didn't recognize them, you'd probably step through them. Not everyone's allergic to poison ivy, both for those who are, take care.

(What an amazing climb! - Not up for leading it just yet, but wow! Primo climbing.)

Jamie
Jamie Simpson
 
Posts: 71
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:23 am
Location: St. Andrews

Postby martha » Tue Sep 06, 2005 7:25 am

I think most people do it in one long pitch with minimal gear on the bottom so they avoid that ledge.
thanks for the heads up though cause that is next on Freds list!! :)
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby Fred » Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:31 am

5ft below the bolt? Do you mean the bolt for "The Way Life Should be"?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Jamie Simpson » Tue Sep 06, 2005 12:57 pm

Yeah - I think so. My friend who lead it put a long sling on the bolt, then traversed across the ledge to climb up to the flake and under the roof. If you go straight up to the ledge you would avoid the poison ivy.

We did it in one pitch too - no problem at all (with careful use of slings to avoid rope drag, especially in the roof area). Amazing climb.

Jamie
Jamie Simpson
 
Posts: 71
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:23 am
Location: St. Andrews

Postby Fred » Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:12 pm

If you climbed directly below the bolt that is the start to "The way life should be"
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby jeremy » Wed Sep 07, 2005 12:36 pm

I pulled a good size block off pink panther this past weekend (at the last jug before the layback flake). I found a lot of loose stuff on climbs I have done many times before. I pulled a huge jug off the waltz (it actually made the jug twice as big), and key crimps off steal your face and the talasmasca. I guess I must be getting stronger :roll:

To recap the weekend: great weather, great climbing, d-day is one of the best sport climbs in welsford, I redpointed the flight of the valkeries and it should be a 3 or 4 star route.

jeremy
User avatar
jeremy
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:33 pm
Location: oromocto NB

Postby Fred » Wed Sep 07, 2005 1:27 pm

Nice work for Flight of the Valkeries. A solid lead no doubt.

I like D-day quite a bit myself but I don't know if I'd go as far as to say it's one of the nicest sport routes in Welsford. Think of all the other much more asthetic routes. :)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby martha » Wed Sep 07, 2005 1:33 pm

jeremy wrote: I guess I must be getting stronger :roll:

jeremy


stronger? or fatter? cause either would make you pull off holds. :P

haha. I'm one to talk with this extra weight right now eh? I'll soon be a good belay partner for Tim!!!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby Jamie Simpson » Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:50 pm

Speaking of loose rock - there's a triangular block that could let go on Pink Panther just below the top out.

Jamie
Jamie Simpson
 
Posts: 71
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:23 am
Location: St. Andrews

Postby jeremy » Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:10 pm

yeah my fat arse must have loosened it :oops:

I don't know why you guys go to the bolt, its quite well protected if you start below and just right of the ledge, then climb up and left to meet the ledge on the right side, maybe 5.8.

We found a 4 inch snake that was brown with an orange ring around its neck climbing snake peel. I guess they still use that crack to shed their skin. Thats how it got its name. It must be a perfect squeeze chimney.
User avatar
jeremy
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:33 pm
Location: oromocto NB


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 29 guests

cron