Sunday Jan 29th... Ice Climbing

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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Sunday Jan 29th... Ice Climbing

Postby mike » Sun Jan 22, 2006 12:23 pm

The forecast finally looks like winter might be starting to wake up. Must have been some party! It's over a month late.

I don't know bout ya'll but I've got an itchin that's gottta be scratched.

Hopefully there will be ice in NS next weekend. I'd like to climb here. Otherwise, I'm into a bit of a road trip to NB to get some climbing done.

If it's gonna be in NS I'd recommend somewhere away from the coast, as high tide is right in the middle of the day. Options? Deep cove (south facing, probably not the best place for thin ice), Truro (a little small), apparently theres a place in Tatamagouch, although I havn't been there- anyone??? Moose River is an option- probably a ggod one based on the lack of snow on the ground- easy to get into the falls through the woods and the logging roads should be vehicle accessable.

NB options- I have no idea. But I am willing to make the drive. I can more than likely get my hands on a van that can hold 5 people and gear. We could split the costs of gas and leave super early.

Anyone interested?
Mike
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Postby The Mitt » Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:35 pm

I would be in for a moose river adventure.

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Postby szymiec » Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:42 pm

Heck Yes! I am in for where ever!

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Postby martha » Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:27 pm

Parlee is still good from what I know, but the rest have been kind of trashed from the rain. By next weekend things will be looking up.
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Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Lookin' for ice

Postby shannon » Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:07 pm

Well, my wife and I will be in Halifax Sat. and Sun. And we're looking for ice to climb. Truro would be fun if there's ice there by then. It's on our way home to PEI.

Either way, we have saturday afternoon, and any time on sunday up til around late afternoon.
cell phone 628 7581 Have rope, will belay.

shannon
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Postby Zamboni » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:02 pm

I'm in, I only have a 72L back pack and a harness. Lord C, would I be able to borrow your pink power houses of no shame again? Will CNS leand me a pair of crampons, and axe's.
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Postby Eager » Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:18 pm

I was out to Moose River about a week or so ago to go kayak some of the gorge. I figured the logging roads would be good to go with the warm temps and all. When I got there I found a ice covered road that was completely impassable. You could still hike upriver from the road though.
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Postby The Mitt » Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:12 am

How much ice is on the river?

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Postby mike » Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:46 am

I'll see if I can get an update on the conditions of the logging roads out that way. I know some folks nearby...Thanks for the tip Eager.

The upside to climbing rather than kayaking is that we will be equiped with crampons rather than encumbered with kayaks.

I've got the GSP co-ords for the falls. One option would be to head up the eastern logging road and rappel in. Walking up the river is kinda scary- Alan Wilson almost got sucked under the ice when he broke through.

Mike

Zamboni... I think Lord C might be locked in a bathroom smearing himself with Oil of Olay after his last post. Some comment about "way back in the day when I had finger stregnth"
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Moose river

Postby shannon » Mon Jan 23, 2006 12:23 pm

Where is Moose River?
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Postby The Teth » Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:06 pm

Yes Zamboni, you can borrow the CNS crampons and tools, and you can share them with any other CNS members who accompany you. You still have the gear right?

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Postby mike » Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:23 pm

Moose River is on the north shore of the Bay of Fundy, east of Parrsborough and just a little west of Economy.

From what I remember it's about 2km up river from the highway. There's logging roads the run parallel to the river on each side of it. I've been up the river, I've approaced it from the west... I'm hoping that the approach from the east is better than both of those. I'm pretty sure I've got topos of the area (what about you Mitt- you got any data on the area... can you post a scan of a map?), I've also got the GPS waypoints of the area.

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Postby The Mitt » Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:58 pm

Send me the gps points and I will put up a map, I had it but it got lost in the move but, its easy to repost the map.

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Postby mike » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:10 am

Cool mitt,

These are pretty close:

45 25' 30" N
64 12' 08" E

If you're using NRC topos it on map: Parrsboro 21 H/8 (1:50000).

Fingers crossed for the cold.
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Postby mike » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:15 am

Looking at the map- it looks like it's about 2.5km up the logging road (eastt of the river) and then just a couple of hundred meters through the forest to the top of the cliff.

For all of you who havn't been, or who might be unaware, Moose River has a couple of grade 4+ or possible even grade 5-, 180' climbs, a few 60-80' grade 3's and a bunch of grade 2+ to 3 small stuff. Plus it's a really pretty little canyon.

Rarrrrrrrr,
Mike
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Postby anne » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:39 pm

Hey!! I am in as well. My ice axes are in pretty bad mood because they were in the warm closet for amost 4 weeks now. Which day do you want to go?

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Postby mike » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:57 pm

Hey Anne,

Don't be takin any heat from those ornary ice axes of yers. Just tell em that yer gonna take em out and show em a good time on Sunday. Tell em that you've been trying to make time for them but it just hasn't felt right... tell em you're felling better about your relationship and that you're ready to take it to the next level.

Sunday, Jan. 29th...

Mike
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Postby The Mitt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:14 am

How about Steve-O-renos 0800?

Mitt (Aka mittens... its cold out there:)
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Postby szymiec » Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:21 am

SHOTGUN!

in for Sunday
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Postby ben smith » Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:59 pm

is there any space left? i'd be stoked to try out some ice climbing
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Postby szymiec » Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:01 pm

Lets see.

Mike, The Mitt, Me(Chris), Anne and Ben.

Whats the wheels situation?

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Postby The Mitt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:49 pm

I will drive The Jimmy, so I can take 4 comfortably and 5 if we squeeze. Gas money will be appreaciated :)

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Postby Zamboni » Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:58 pm

SHOTGUN for the Jimmy. Yes I've got some gas money! I'll Bring the CNS gear.

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Postby anne » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:25 pm

Great - I have a car but I share it with a friend and she probably needs it on Sunday night. So, can I get a ride now - I can drive next time. Where the hell is Steve-O-renos 0800 or maybe better - what is it? Does CNS have extra leaches for ice axes? Mine are crappy!
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Postby anne » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:28 pm

... and of course will contribute gas money. I got a 60 m rope but only two screws. Anything else that we need?

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Postby The Mitt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:12 pm

Steve-O-Renos is a coffee shop downtown near spring Garden, Mike help me out with directions.

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Postby szymiec » Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:17 pm

Yo.
Steve P Renos is at 1536 Brunswick Street, just off of Spring Garden Road and right across from the library. Right beside the Folklore Centre.

How many ropes do we need? Mine isnt dry treated so if i dont need to bring it i would rather not. I will bring my top rope goodies though just in case.

My got the logistics are mind boggling!
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Postby The Mitt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:25 pm

Ok as for directions here is what I got off of an "explore NS" site. Its been awhile since I have been there.

Moose River Gorge

Moose River Gorge There is no easy way into Moose River Gorge... to get close to the river requires a 4x4 vehicle with good clearance to navigate the old logging roads. Getting into the gorge itself requires hard backcountry hiking, and vertical climbing. This is one of the roughest areas in Nova Scotia, requiring almost vertical climbs of several hundred feet... definitely NOT for the unfit or inexperienced hiker.

Follow Hwy 102 from Halifax to Truro, exiting left (exit #15) onto Hwy 104 towards New Brunswick. Exit right onto Glenholme Loop, then turn right onto old highway. Follow a short distance and exit left on Hwy 2 towards Parrsboro. Follow road to the community of Moose River, exiting right onto dirt road just past Moose River bridge (at sharp right bend in road).

Follow main dirt road up mountainside until road levels, then turn right at fork in road (this should be the third right off main dirt road). After turning right at fork, follow road short distance and take first right on old logging access road. Follow this old road as it loops down into gully and up the right side of a large hill. Look for this hill... it stands out with it's trees, surrounded by a barren clear-cut landscape. Keep right on old logging road, past hill, and park at end of track. Look for old skidder track at far left of clearing and follow down hill, through woods to cliff edge. Look for flagging tape and follow straight down to river. From here you can either follow river upstream to several waterfalls, or cross river and follow downstream to the Great Falls which spills over 80 feet into a canyon surrounded by vertical rock faces. This is some of the most dangerous hiking and climbing that I've yet experienced in Nova Scotia... please use EXTREME CAUTION when navigating river and cliff edges.


Sounds like fun
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Postby mike » Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:28 pm

Well, I can certainly bring my car if there's gonna be 6 of us otherwise.. I wouldn't mind squeezing.
I've got 2- 50M (maybe 60- not sure) ropes. I'd recommend that we bring whatever ropes we've got. I'm going to work tomorrow- I'll see if I can get my paws on a 400' static rope for top roping the big stuff.

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Postby The Mitt » Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:31 pm

Sounds good man. Now everyone Prey for ice :)

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