Trad climbing course

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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Postby dquinn » Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:40 pm

martha wrote:Which YOU can agree. I still don't 100%. There wasn't a huge barrier for me at all. I climbed with Fred about 3 or 4 days a week outside for the first couple years we were together and voila.. I learned. And it wasn't a big deal cause that is where we wanted to be and he didn't have any problems putting the time in with me etc.


I think we need to agree to agree to disagree and move on. Besides, I'm starting to see your point, it only took you 3 or 4 days a week outside for a couple of years. Wham bam thank you mam, it's just that easy.

martha wrote:I am due in 7 days and was climbing last week. It is perfectly safe, and I have a harness that she could wear that is quite comfortable even over a baby bump.


When I started this debate I wasn't aware of just how hardcore you are. Climbing 9 months pregnant: taking it to a new level. Besides, bouldering isn't really climbing anyway. Just playing on rocks. We shouldn't have had to bump heads since we really shouldn't be on the same forum. There should be a seperate forum for "Boulder Eastern Canada".
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Postby dquinn » Fri Feb 03, 2006 6:51 pm

martha wrote:
I am due in 7 days and was climbing last week. It is perfectly safe, and I have a harness that she could wear that is quite comfortable even over a baby bump.


Since we are on the topic, have you ever been straining really hard on a problem and had a fart squeak out? I know I have. It is awfully embarrassing, but that aside, are you ever worried that you might be top roping and really given ‘er hell and the baby might squeak out?
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Postby Eager » Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:35 pm

I'd be careful where you go climbing bud
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Postby dquinn » Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:41 pm

I'd be careful who you make threats to. Bud.

I make lame jokes online, you make implied threats to my safety. Not cool.
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Postby dquinn » Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:05 pm

Also, I didn't mean to be offensive. Sorry if it offended anyone, sometimes I miss the mark with my humour. Seemed funnier in my head.
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Postby dcentral » Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:38 pm

Snowboarding has a pretty high entery cost. If you want to have your own board and lift tickets ski gear etc.

Also you might have taken a half hour course, but I'm sure you've learned a lot from your friends you ride with and vice-versa. Which you could consider to be an apprenticship.

Which is all they are really suggesting. I don't think they really mean you have to second someone for a year before you should even start trad climbing, it's just good to be out with someone who knows what they are doing.

While you may find it discouraging to get into it's really just part of the game and you've got to get over that or don't go.
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Postby granite_grrl » Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:04 pm

dcentral wrote:Snowboarding has a pretty high entery cost. If you want to have your own board and lift tickets ski gear etc.

Also you might have taken a half hour course, but I'm sure you've learned a lot from your friends you ride with and vice-versa. Which you could consider to be an apprenticship.

Which is all they are really suggesting. I don't think they really mean you have to second someone for a year before you should even start trad climbing, it's just good to be out with someone who knows what they are doing.

While you may find it discouraging to get into it's really just part of the game and you've got to get over that or don't go.


Yes, I agree that a heavy duty apprentiship is unecissary. But getting out with experianced people, lots of different experianced people, will help you quite a bit. Always good to add a few things to your bag of tricks.

Originally I thought the costs of getting into trad climbing far too high. I then started spying deals, asking for gear for my b-day and xmas, and I had a workable rack in very little time (and very little I bought myself). Any specilty peices or extra gear I'd use from who ever I was climbing with. Two small racks can make quite a full one (sometimes too full, but whatever :P ).
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Postby Danger » Sat Feb 04, 2006 10:42 am

I'd be interested in the Trad dealy...if the costs of the course aren't prohibitive...

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Postby The Mitt » Sat Feb 04, 2006 10:58 am

dquinn wrote:
martha wrote:
I am due in 7 days and was climbing last week. It is perfectly safe, and I have a harness that she could wear that is quite comfortable even over a baby bump.


Since we are on the topic, have you ever been straining really hard on a problem and had a fart squeak out? I know I have. It is awfully embarrassing, but that aside, are you ever worried that you might be top roping and really given ‘er hell and the baby might squeak out?


Well that's gotta be up there for most offensive post in the community.

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Postby dquinn » Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:16 pm

I agree, where are the moderators around here?
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Postby seanT » Sat Feb 04, 2006 3:58 pm

once i strained really hard and farted and left a little bacon strip but i think that was because i was soooo scared because i was leading trad.
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Postby Scooter » Sat Feb 04, 2006 4:05 pm

LOL!
baha i fart all the time, straining or not
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Postby martha » Sat Feb 04, 2006 4:31 pm

dquinn wrote:Since we are on the topic, have you ever been straining really hard on a problem and had a fart squeak out? I know I have. It is awfully embarrassing, but that aside, are you ever worried that you might be top roping and really given ‘er hell and the baby might squeak out?


Well, too be honest, I've heard a lot of stories about labour and everything points to it being a lot more work than a 'fart sqeaking out'.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

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Postby mike » Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:05 pm

During my level one rope access training, the guy acting as the casuality farted right into the mouth of the guy who was climbing up to rescue him.
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Postby Eager » Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:10 pm

For some reason Mike I don't find that hard to believe, I'm guessing you were the one distress. Or should I say the one with.
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Postby mike » Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:57 am

Naw not me, I was rolling on the floor laughing...

It was Yonni- farted right into Mark Nantel's mouth.
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Postby Zamboni » Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:57 pm

Hahah, Thanks for the thought old man.. Sorry It took soo long for me to say something.. I've been avoiding this thread cause I hate reading anything martha has to say...

Nate, I'm not paying for any lead flowers. I just need a mad man swinging a Jumar at me, than I can jump on the sharp end.
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Postby Fred » Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:14 pm

Zamboni wrote:Nate, I'm not paying for any lead poop. I just need a mad man swinging a Jumar at me, than I can jump on the sharp end.


I probably shouldn't go here but at one point it's better to learn from mistakes...

A climber with very little experience was seriously injured this year in NB. He is lucky to be alive. However, he is paralized for life. It should be in everyone's mind that we never know enough. All of us can benefit from more learning on any level. If not to learn new things, then to practice and refresh rusty skills. The biggest problem with climbing I find is people who think they know it all. I will be the first to admit that I know very little compared to many.

Nate, I think it's a great initiative to start a trad climbing course. Keep up the good work. you are on the right track.

Zamboni, I hope you can find some seriousness in this post and seek guidance from your peers (Sean T, Cassidy, Zig, JP, whoever...) if you are serious about learning trad.

There was a point when I thought I knew it all and was in complete control. Then one day I got on a route, way past my gear, didn't protect my ledge and fell 20ft onto my ass on a granite ledge. I was rescued and rushed to the hospital because I thought I had broken my back. Luckily I walked away with tissue injuries and can live and walk to talk about it today. It took me two seasons to get back on the horse and I now have much more respect for climbing in general.

There's one thing I never joke about... climbing safety.

cheers all
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby vbpad » Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:22 pm

here here i agree entirely
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Postby The Mitt » Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:33 am

I agree with all that you said Fred, How ever there are many who also take one course and end up going out to "conquer the world". I don't think there is a person out there who can take an inexperienced Trad climber and in 2-3 days bring him up to being able to place "bomber" gear at his absolute limit of climbing. There are many ways to learn and courses are one of them, however you must accept the limits of what you can learn in a short period of time.


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Postby martha » Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:24 am

That is what I had been saying all along... courses are great... followed by lots of practice and mileage.
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Postby Richard Eh! » Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:04 pm

Last summer was the first time I led trad. As a prelude, I did a lot of top-roping, and I seconded at least five good leaders as often as I could to the limits of my climbing ability. I also took all the courses on anchors, safety, and First Aid that were available, read every book on climbing, anchors, safety and self rescue I could get my hands on. My partner for all my first trad leads insisted that I not use any cams; only nuts and hexes and a few tricams. And I started leading on 5.4 and worked my way to 5.7. I'm in no hurry to lead at my "absolute limit of climbing ability". It will be a long slow progression and I'll have fun all the way. .....I guess my point here is...Do you want to Trad Lead to impress your friends or because it's where you really like to be with good company on your free time?
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
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Postby Pierre » Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:46 pm

Hey Richard,

I like your approach to learning how to trad climb. I'm very interested into learming how to trad climb I'm in no hurry and could careless about the grade of climb. As a prelude to Trad climbing I'm hoping to do alot more top roping this spring/summer. I will also read alot on the subject and get familiar various types of trad gear plus hopefully I'll get some practise placing pro whenever I'm out at the crag. It would also be nice to get sometime out with experienced trad climbers seconding and possible getting my first lead in. If a course comes available I would see myself taking that too...

I know it's going to be a slow process for me to learn how to trad climb but It will certainly be worth it at the end. I'm into climbing for the long haul....

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Postby Richard Eh! » Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:46 pm

Oh, and I read up on a lot of of reports of climbing accidents and injuries on the web as well as tips and tricks and all the other help and info you can find on the climb related sites.
I had a really good teacher in woodworking years ago who said "if you want to be a good carpenter, I'll teach you all the mistakes".
Well if you gotta learn "all the mistakes" in climbing, best to do it second hand......live to tell the tale.
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
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Postby MarkR » Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:55 pm

I would like to suggest that this thread represents a classic example of confusing destinations and journeys and that climbing in general, but trad especially, is a journey. When we lose sight of this we often end up losing our sense of enjoyment. Learning to lead trad IS climbing trad. Following a leader and examining and removing their gear is something that we do as long as we climb trad. It is part of it. Climbing routes below our "ultimate" ability is also climbing and can be highly enjoyable. If we learn to enjoy the journey (which is after all still climbing) then the concept of "entry barrier" becomes irrelevent, and off days just become days for revisiting old friends (that is classic, easier, safe routes that we have wired.) No loss there.
As Richard pointed out it is really about being there climbing and having fun.
Just make it smart, safe(ish) fun... :)
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Postby The Mitt » Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:39 pm

I think that is the best way I have seen it described. Thanks for that.

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Postby Nate » Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:49 pm

Sorry about the wait for information. It's coming soon....
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Postby mathieu » Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:37 pm

MarkR wrote:Learning to lead trad IS climbing trad.


Nicely said. Praxis my friends.
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Postby mike » Tue Feb 07, 2006 7:51 pm

Ehhhhh Esaaaayyyy!!!

Nice facquing vocabularrry mang!
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Postby granite_grrl » Wed Feb 08, 2006 1:02 pm

MarkR wrote:I would like to suggest that this thread represents a classic example of confusing destinations and journeys and that climbing in general, but trad especially, is a journey. When we lose sight of this we often end up losing our sense of enjoyment. Learning to lead trad IS climbing trad. Following a leader and examining and removing their gear is something that we do as long as we climb trad. It is part of it. Climbing routes below our "ultimate" ability is also climbing and can be highly enjoyable. If we learn to enjoy the journey (which is after all still climbing) then the concept of "entry barrier" becomes irrelevent, and off days just become days for revisiting old friends (that is classic, easier, safe routes that we have wired.) No loss there.
As Richard pointed out it is really about being there climbing and having fun.
Just make it smart, safe(ish) fun... :)


Great post.
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