Medicine Wall new route

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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Medicine Wall new route

Postby Stevo » Mon May 29, 2006 7:07 am

This route tackles the fine crack which forms the upper part of the line previously top-roped and described in the guidebook as "Breast Implant". I'm pretty sure that it hasn't been led free before.

Heart Transplant 5.10c G (S. Punshon and S. Kelly, 28th May 06)
Start about 3m right of Laceration on a flat slab of rock and climb a right trending groove for 15 ft until level with the overlap. Traverse L to gain the crack and follow it on finger and thin-hand jams though two overhangs to the top.

There is a picture of Sean Cassidy attempting this on the Cape Clear message board
http://www.capeclear.org/forum/phpBB2/index.php

Cheers
Steve
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Postby The Mitt » Mon May 29, 2006 6:28 pm

What an outstanding climb for such a sort pitch. Slab to a roof, to a slab, to a bit of a roof again. Very sharp!!

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