First Face

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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Postby tracstarr » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:22 am

first face was awesome yesterday. scared the crap outta myself trying to finish the line Ludacris something? 5.11C (DEFINATLY not 5.11!!!)

as i was trying to roll over the ledge to reach the anchors all i could pull on was lichen.. wasn't enough this time.... off i went! took a pretty long fall. 15 feet i'd say. the fall was cool, but once i came to a stop and the adrenalin was gone i thought i was going to puke! LOL. can't believe that was my first fall on lead outside!

no bugs either! sweet!
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Postby chameleon » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:44 am

First Face is sweet isn't it!!
Glad to hear people are on those awesome routes.

Nate, did you decipher the exit moves from the top of Pyramid ok? There's a hidden hold or two..the FA guys traversed right and did some short dynos (much harder, I think).

Tracstarr, next time you've got to get on Sins and Transgressions near the left end --- my vote for the best sport route in NS. Another "11", and harder than Ludicrous methinks.

Sean
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Postby Nate » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:46 pm

nope, me and jeremy could get it...we tried the traverse right and big throw. Couldn't find the other way..

Nate
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Postby Nate » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:56 pm

and by could i do mean couldn't. that thing is hard...
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Postby seanT » Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:52 am

Ahhh the old grade debate. Well if makes any diff I did Ludicruos second go and felt it was solid 11a/b. If it is harder than 11d well then you might as well bump up the grade on all the routes in NS a full # which makes Chameleon 14a!!!Sweet...Once again the Cassinator is the hardman we all knew he was.
Sean.
ps wait till you get on Blue Sky Mining!
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Postby chameleon » Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:09 am

Remember....back in the day, the boys called Pyramid 5.9.

Nate, the next time you are up there, look for a pad-width edge for the right hand almost an arm length up and right from the corner of the roof. It is angled I think so it is in the right direction to pull...not very strenuous, but a little delicate.

Authori-therien, I noticed you used hardman in the past tense!!! Must've been a typo!! :)


S
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Postby tracstarr » Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:11 am

dude, it could be a 5.8 right now. i suck ass! haven't been on rock in a month. excited to get on the rope now though. off to germany in a month for some action direct! ;)
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Postby dpg » Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:23 am

Also want to give Slave to Fashion a shout out for a prime NS sport route. Its one of the best I've climbed anywhere!

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Postby Fred » Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:39 pm

Blue Sky Mining is definitely harder than 11a. I'd say 11b or 11c
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby tracstarr » Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:30 pm

yeah, i saw the rap anchors for it just as we were leaving. didn't know what it was until Nate told me. didn't get to look at it either. maybe this weekend.
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Postby chameleon » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:10 am

There's definitely no place to hide! Good job gettin' on Pyramid though Nate! I always find that section getting into the dihedral to be the hardest..and then there's the bouldery start that needs some focus.....
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Postby Nate » Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:35 pm

haha, yeah he weren't feeling up to the start there so we stuck a nut in on the way down off of scrape and pillage and sort of stick clipped it.

Nate
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Postby Danger » Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:51 pm

Found a nut left on pyramid...
no idea who's it could be. I should probably just throw it in the garbage just to be super safe.
but if you just happen to want to save an old nut, you can have er'.
claim away.
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Postby Nate » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:23 pm

I'll take that. See you tomorrow morning dude...
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Postby nsagar » Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:59 pm

For what it's worth I think both Slave and and L.A. are both in and around 12-. I have done "a few" other routes of this grade and I think this is a fair grade.

First face has the best sport climbing in NS.

//Nick
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