New route in E gully

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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New route in E gully

Postby Stevo » Fri Aug 25, 2006 6:15 pm

Bodyline 5.10a G (S. Punshon, unseconded, 25th August 06)

Starts just right of Enervator and climbs the steep aesthetically pleasing shallow dihedral. Tricky step into dihedral to reach good finger lock (#1 friend). Run it out using the intermittent crack in the dihedral and the left arete to reack a ledge at the base of the wide crack of Euthanasia. A superb and natural direct start to Euthanasia, which is possibly the best fist crack in Nova Scotia. This route superceeds the poor original start up the bolted groove of Enervator and is much more in keeping with the overhanging crack.

I doubt anyone has led Euthanasia since I did it about three years ago, but then again you need big arms and bollocks to match in order to climb that one!
I see someone is recleaning E-gads.


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Postby The Mitt » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:59 pm

No really tell us about how you feel the route goes :lol:

Congrats man. I will be home on 01 Sep 06. Road trip?

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Bodyline

Postby peter » Sat Aug 26, 2006 5:51 am

Hey Mitt. Here is a hint on the grade. I have led 5.10a/b, as recently as last month, but I didn't even try seconding this. It looked too muscular for a skinny guy like me. As they say in a job posting, "Punshon biceps not required but a definite asset ...". Peter
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Postby Stevo » Sat Aug 26, 2006 7:09 am

Grades are all in the head.

"What if six turned out to be nine?" (Jimi Hendrix)
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Postby Stevo » Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:14 am

Hey Peter,

Do you still have 2 quick draws of mine? Red slings, BD oval biners identifiable by 3 file notches. Otherwise I must have left them at the bottom of the crag.

Cheers
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Postby The Mitt » Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:26 am

So the Great SteveO is littering up the crags? SHAME!!! We should have him drawn and quartered immediately :lol:

Benn working out I might be able to get up a New Hampshire 5.9 soon lol

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Postby Nate » Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:58 pm

so, does this mean it's the e/b gully now?
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Postby Stevo » Sun Aug 27, 2006 9:07 pm

Hey Mitt,
I have been training on Nova Scotia 5.10s for New Hampshire 5.8s. Talk about overgraded up here? That route in E-gully is easy 5.10 real deal. Trad grade ego-massaging for sure in NS!!!!
Should be going on N.Conway trip in first week in Sept., You up for foursome??

Hey Nate,
Yeah those 80s and 90s E-names are confusing, can't tell one from the other, but this is the New Dawn of Main Face climbing, time to check out the other 25 letters of the alphabet.

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Postby The Mitt » Mon Aug 28, 2006 10:12 am

I'm in.

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EGully

Postby peter » Mon Aug 28, 2006 4:17 pm

I don't think I have your gear Steve, as I dumped my bag to pack for the weekend, and didn't see it, but I will look again. Peter
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