Clean & Climb - Down to the Nitty Gritty

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Park & Fly Location

Park/Drink in Downtown Halifax?
4
80%
Park/Drink in Downtown Dartmouth?
1
20%
 
Total votes : 5

Clean & Climb - Down to the Nitty Gritty

Postby peter » Sat Sep 16, 2006 5:06 pm

Teth's route ideas are good. I have climbed them all, except Oscar, which always spanks me with its painful, tiny finger moves near the top ... I don't think it needs cleaning, but all the others listed, do (I can say from having climbed them in the last couple of years).

Rendez vous location: good food and cheap beer is the goal, but downtown Halifax is then full of possibilities for after that, if anyone wants to stay out (so says the guy that never gets out). Of course, anyone can make their own arrangements. If we are rallying somewhere to save on gas and to get some beverages in without moving the car, I would say park at the Nova Scotia Power lot at Lower Water and Morris, as there is no security on the weekend, and there is lots of room. Anywhere else downtown charges during the day on Saturday. If it is Dartmouth, I would say the Micmac Beverage Room on the Waverly Road.

Those are just my two cents, so wade in on any issue.

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Postby The Teth » Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:52 pm

Oh, well, I can get the ferry across if we are meeting in Halifax. What time are we meeting?

Does anyone know if “Don’t Let Go” [5.10d] (right of “Mr Puff”) needs cleaning? It looks like a good aid climb (at least from its description in the book) and at 27m it would be the tallest thing I have climbed. I would probably have to split it into a multi pitch, as I do not think I have enough gear to aid the whole route in one go. I would likely have to setup an anchor half way up, repel down, clean my gear while ascending my rope and then continue from my midpoint anchor. Of course I would probably have to do this for any of the taller routes. Seems like fun.

On the other hand, maybe I should clean something a little easier which others would want to climb after?

Maybe we should compile a list of the routes we suspect need cleaning?

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Postby Nate » Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:01 am

Yeah Don't Let Go could use cleaning. I say that because I'd like to climb it so you can take that with a grain of salt. The Abyss is dirty(right once more of Mr. puff) and Conan, Lunchbucket, Wedge, Farewell to Arms, Buffy....there's lots to choose from...

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Postby The Mitt » Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:12 am

Conan would be a great Aid route. Man good luck cleaning that thing.

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Postby The Teth » Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:13 am

Well, sounds like I have my area narrowed down. Final decision will depend on what things look like on the ground once I get there.

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Postby The Teth » Wed Sep 20, 2006 2:04 pm

Is anyone bringing a camera? That avatar image I use is a bit light and airy for my current image. I need a photo of me weighted down with about 50 pounds of gear. A shot of me on-route would be even better.

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Postby Nate » Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:30 pm

Teth,

I'll bring my camera along if you'd like.

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Postby The Teth » Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:06 am

OK, so lets get the nitty gritty details. So are we meeting at the NS Power parking lot on the Halifax waterfront near Morris? What time? How about 8:30 am? If I take the 8:00 am ferry across and hike along the board-walk I should get there before 8:30. Or should it be earlier/later?

And Nate, that would be great if you brought your camera.

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Saturday

Postby peter » Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:35 am

How about 9:00 a.m.. I need my beauty sleep. Peter
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Postby The Teth » Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:04 am

Sounds good to me. That is late enough that I might be able to convince my wife to get up and drive me to the ferry. That would save me 20 minutes of walking.

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