Ethics violation for history buffs

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Ethics violation for history buffs

Postby mothecat » Tue Nov 28, 2006 5:55 pm

While out not looking for boulders in "lake of the woods" subdivison in Tantallon, I pulled off the road to get my bearings. I scrambled onto a boulder on the side of the road to figure out where some boulders I had been to previously were. (I didn't want to run into those things again, the next thing you'd know I'd have a finger injury.)

Once i determined that I was a safe distance away, I looked down and realized a tri-cam (old style, made by Camp #.5, pink) was adhered to the rock. There was a glob of cement around the metal base, the webbing, once pink, now white was sticking out. Weird, I took a few pics.

I got off the boulder and realizing it was a descent size, decide to see if there may be a problem or two. One line stood out; join the obvious edges and jugs to the top. I decide to sneaker it, got a few moves up and realized that holds were glued on. Yep, a collection of 6 or 8 granite pieces had been cemented to the face. Confused, I sent it anyway.

None of the aformentioned glued pieces appear to be new. In fact, there is even lichen growing on the glue and glued on holds. I'd say 10 years at least, maybe more. Here are a few pics.
http://joegreyeh.spaces.live.com/photos ... 21178!121/

Good frigin' job. I'm not pro gluing on holds but I'm impressed with whatever the product whoever did this used. If I ever have to glue something to something and never want it to come off I'm using that stuff.

Moe
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Postby granite_grrl » Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:23 pm

Weird. You think they were just practicing their gluing technique?
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Postby Zamboni » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:12 pm

Stevo lives out that way? I wonder if he has anything to do with it? :P
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Postby Stevo » Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:48 am

I have a small, mostly blank, rock face in my back yard and it had crossed my mind to glue on some holds.....not that I have done this sort of thing before, you understand!

Cheers
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Postby seanT » Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:29 am

I know that Lost Boys @ Neverland has some glue in bolts and at least 1 glue reinforced hold so perhaps Sean Willet experimented on this boulder years ago when he was getting ready to bolt LB. Nick and Heather were climbing with him back then mabye they could shed some light on this mystery or mabye not... funny thing to find in the middle of the woods anyway.
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