Rock in mid April?

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Rock in mid April?

Postby nsintros » Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:26 pm

hey im looking for some beta on climbing in nova scotia in mid april from around the 17th-24th. what are the temps like? places to camp? types of climbing? is it mostly bouldering or are there some trad/sport/tr to be done? if there is any trad/sport/tr to be done id be looking for a partner as i will be visiting nova scotia by myself. i can trad lead up to 5.8ish maybe a little higher or lower depending on how stiff your ratings are up there. anyways thanks for any info you have to share.
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mid April

Postby mothecat » Wed Mar 16, 2005 11:13 am

Mid April is hit or miss. You can expect anything from warm and sunny to wet and windy and cold and wet and wet.

I'd say your best bet is bouldering. There is plenty around of all grades. You can usually get some good days even if it's cold. There is a new bouldering guidebook.

As far as routes goes, there are many crags around for trad and top rope, but not much sport. There are few routes 5.8 or lower and most of the 5.8's are sandbags. A lot of the crags tend to stay wet, but Sorrow's End dries fast and if you aren't from here it's definately worth a visit.

There aren't many serviced campgrounds close to the climbing, but you can pitch a tent just about anywhere where there is climbing.

If you need a partner make a post to this message board closer to your arrival date and plenty of argumentatives fools will greet you. And don't worry if you get in over your head, once we're done ridiculing you we'll send in the milatary to rescue your ass.

Mo
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mid-April

Postby peter » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:32 pm

Generally,

- the snow is out of the woods, or at least mostly
- there are no bugs yet
- the trad lines are often still wet, unless clean and in the sun
- both trad and bouldering are often done well before then

Plan to climb, but if you are thinking of trad climbing, don't bring a full rack; instead, just bring shoes, harness and helmet and post for a partner. If you are coming to boulder, shirts are not permitted in N.S..

The above are all statements capable of proof, not opinions. And I have climbed more with military people in the last six months than with non-military and damn, I have come to prefer them, especially in the last four days.

:P
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Postby Stevo » Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:32 pm

Give me a shout when you arrive, I try to get out as much as poss. in April/May before the blackflies. Just bring shoes, harness and a few favorite nuts, I have a pile of gear, but for trad only.
Email: spunshon@dal.ca,
phone: 902 826 9008

Cheers
Steve
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Postby joysquirts » Fri Mar 18, 2005 11:59 am

hey man im a scotian im going to be off for those days and am planing a trip across canada for later that month or erly may. so im really interested in checking out my new gear camping for a few days would be good for me and my gear, would be nice to take some of the new smell off them maybe even scuff em up. i know whats up with bouldering in scotia, im confident getting around all the areas and im sure i could find classic problems in your dificalty for you to bleed on.
BUT sport climbing would give me some jollies im new to sport climbing and really need to start getting out, with the weather thats coming, could work out great for some bolt climbing! i have sport gear and know plases to go!! i dont climb trad but im open to second

thats my story, for you or any climbers on this forum hook up my email im free every nice day from now untill i leave in late april/erly may, i have a car and a pad i just need a belay (content moderated)! preferably one with experience! really itching for the columbus wall adambenjamin@hotmail
ADAM BENJAMIN
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