Aid route at Gulliver's Head

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Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby Stevo » Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:09 pm

Park at Gullivers Cove and walk left along the shore under the impressively loose and overhanging cliff until you reach a point near the right end where the high water line reaches the crag. The shattered basalt is a little more solid here but loose blocks and expanding flakes are still plentiful. Start on a flat boulder a few metres left of the tidal section under a shallow dihedral at half height.

Iron Wing A2 60 ft (S. Punshon, N. Smith and S. Kelly, 8th December)

Climb the wall on thin blades and bugaboos with occasional hook moves to reach the dihedral and some wire placements behind hollow blocks (A2). Move left at a hand jam size horizontal crack to reach a more solid easy dihedral with excellent cam placements and follow to tree belay (A1 and free).

Cheers
Steve
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Re: Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby Zamboni » Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:27 pm

Was that out in digby area?
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Re: Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby chameleon » Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:19 am

Sounds horrible. I hope you didn't pull any of those loose blocks out. :wink:
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Re: Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby The Mitt » Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:44 pm

Some had to go I'm afraid. Most were kept in place with excessive pin bashing :wink:

M
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Re: Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby peter » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:00 am

Zamboni wrote:Was that out in digby area?


Aye, Gulliver's Cove (where you park) is the first village on the Fundy side, as you start down Digby Neck.
A monk asked Quiglin Shiqian, "What is a person who has realized the Way?"
Quiglin said, "Embracing the ice and snow, head and eyebrows held high."
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Re: Aid route at Gulliver's Head

Postby Zamboni » Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:39 pm

Very Nice!
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