Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

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Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby chameleon » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:27 pm

Here’s a few pics from a Columbus outing on the weekend. Note the green schmank throughout. Actually the routes we were on weren’t too bad – could use some traffic though.

We started on the Keyhole wall and cranked out 4 routes (three 5.8s and a 5.10 on the right side). This is a great wall for people getting into trad leading—good pro, good moves, short, friendly, etc. Here’s a shot of my favourite line on this wall: “1492”
1492.jpg
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Next up was sunny climbing on the Pet Wall: “Heavy Petter” (a superb 5.9 mixed climb) and the tenuous “Irresistible Affair” (5.10) – see photo below. Then we jumped on a short but burly sport climb called “A Quick One” to the right that Therien called 10d…for me it was solid 11 and involved Sharma-like screaming to clip the chains [no Sharma-like climbing though] and I still managed to fall off before the hero jugs at the top! (Rich made it look much easier - yep, I agree tall people suk ;) )
irresistible.jpg
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Then it was on to the nice long lines of Alpomayo (5.10), 3D (5.10), In Your Face (5.8) and a couple of short 5.7s from the upper tier.

Here is a bad shot of Alpomayo:
alpomayo.jpg
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The crux is at the bottom but the climbing is interesting throughout, with some great exposure at the top. Get on it!!
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby Fred » Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:09 pm

Looks like some great climbing. I'll put these on my list for my next visit.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby Scooter » Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:34 am

What is that weird blue coloured cord? and where the hell are the crash pads? looks high ball.
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby jeremy benjamin » Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:25 am

I agree, that looks crazy high ball. Whats with the fancy belts you guys are rocking with all the danggly bits, are those like charm bracelets for your waists or what?
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby chameleon » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:57 pm

The new Cordness crash pads can actually unravel into one continuous, 60 metre long strand of shock-absorbing radness.

Reportedly, these babies are useful in working super-highballs….when you fall, the cord/pad simply falls with you (under the force of gravity) and coils in a nice neat pile directly below the impact area – no need for a spotter! Sahh-weet!!!

And with the new “nano-technology”, chalk buckets can now be made as small as the size of a human hand!! Micro-fibres even make the chalk “Bags” light enough to haul up most high balls. (Not sure about the dangly bits you are referring too though, jeremy?)

The fancy belts are of course i-pod docking stations for a realistic surround sound effect which will drown out any unwanted natural interferences (e.g., bird sounds, waves, wind, etc.) that could ruin your well-deserved send.

I believe,
we are on the cusp
of a bouldering
revolution. 8)
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby Scooter » Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:38 pm

dude that was absolutely brilliant ahaha.
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby martha » Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:41 am

chameleon wrote:The new Cordness crash pads can actually unravel into one continuous, 60 metre long strand of shock-absorbing radness.

Reportedly, these babies are useful in working super-highballs….when you fall, the cord/pad simply falls with you (under the force of gravity) and coils in a nice neat pile directly below the impact area – no need for a spotter! Sahh-weet!!!

And with the new “nano-technology”, chalk buckets can now be made as small as the size of a human hand!! Micro-fibres even make the chalk “Bags” light enough to haul up most high balls. (Not sure about the dangly bits you are referring too though, jeremy?)

The fancy belts are of course i-pod docking stations for a realistic surround sound effect which will drown out any unwanted natural interferences (e.g., bird sounds, waves, wind, etc.) that could ruin your well-deserved send.

I believe,
we are on the cusp
of a bouldering
revolution. 8)


Pure genius. (don't let that go to your head!)


1492 looks really nice. we'll definitely add that to our list when we head down.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby cory » Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:38 pm

:lol: chamelon, very witty! :lol: :lol:
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby seanT » Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:38 pm

Ive seen cassinator skinny dipping and believe me he knows allll about "nano"!
Nice work on "a quick one" 10d/11a its all relative....y,know to how strong you are...
I think the more important breaking news here is Zig and Richs redpoints of Desperado.
The 2nd and 3rd ascents after like 5 years!!!!Nice work boys hope you enjoyed the line. To those who dont know Zig is currently tearing Columbus wall a new one with his send of the Peckerhead direct project, the repeat of Desperado and who knows what else. The Cordness pad/rope must be really boosting his confidence for those super highballs at Columbus.
BZINGY!!!!!!
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ps HELLO Halifornication anyone???????
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Re: Columbus Wall – The Dirty Dozen

Postby chameleon » Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:41 pm

martha wrote:Pure genius. (don't let that go to your head!)


Not likely Cara - when I've got friends(?) like SeanT keeping me humble!
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