Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

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Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

Postby Seb » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:35 am

A question about the route “Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight” at Sorrow’s End. How does one bring a second up on this route? I couldn’t locate any bolts at the top of the climb (or at the top of any of the neighboring climbs) and couldn’t find any cracks to build an anchor. What the F?
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Re: Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

Postby Nette » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:21 pm

first you must think outside the dic in the box
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Re: Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

Postby Scooter » Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:04 pm

second, balls to the walls
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Re: Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

Postby peter » Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:00 pm

Find a Second who agress (like Thom Parker): "what's wrong with a solid body belay?"

"Christ man", he shouted from above, "It was good enough for Sandy Irvine at that top of the Second Step, what's wrong with you, lad? Give 'er!"

Aye, an' all that.

PMAC
A monk asked Quiglin Shiqian, "What is a person who has realized the Way?"
Quiglin said, "Embracing the ice and snow, head and eyebrows held high."
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Re: Lycra, Spandex & All Things Tight

Postby Seb » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:49 pm

I went to Sorrow’s this evening. I just decided to go ‘balls to the walls’ and climbed the damn thing anyway. When I topped out I tried to think outside the ‘dick in a box’ and was pleasantly surprised to find bolts at the top of “Bienvenue Au Poulettier” that would suffice. I rapped to take out my gear rather than take up a second though. I was going to give a hip belay from the top but then I thought “a hip belay might have been good enough for Sandy Irvine, but didn’t he die with Mallory on Everest in 1924?” Thanks to all for the good advice though - very helpful.
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