FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

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FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:12 am

Armed with antiquated directions and an entirely misleading photograph, Roger and I headed out to Cape Split yesterday to scope out a rumored ice line on the coast. Lots of bushwacking and a sketchy descent gully (See Roger's report to follow) and a whole lot of beach walking later we happened across the very well hidden Icefall below:

Siren's Song WI5 N III 85m
FFA Matthew Peck and Roger Fage 09/02/10

Park at the lot at the Cape Split Provincial Park trailhead and trend north on trails to reach the bluff overlooking the northern side of Cape Split. Head East to locate the descent route (steep trail with fixed ropes) or locate your own way down (more fun/perilous) Head west along the beach towards Amethest Cove (before the first major point) and keep an eye out for the climb, it's hidden till the last minute, but impossible to miss.
P1 35 m WI5.
P2 40 m WI 4+
P3 10 m WI 4.
You'll need abalacovs for the descent. A total gem and a great new addition to the NS climbing scene.

Image
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:13 am

You can't take the sky from me.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Nette » Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:35 pm

I'm really wishing I didn't have school yesterday. Anyone up for climbing this on the weekend?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby tintanium » Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:17 pm

How about Friday? Massacre Saturday, something called Valentine's Day on Sunday. I'd like to keep horizontal happiness in my life.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby *Chris* » Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:38 pm

Holy Feck! Nice work Peck!
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Eager » Wed Feb 10, 2010 3:47 pm

Nicely Done. Is that on the Minas Basin side or the Bay side?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:44 pm

Bay side. You can actually see it on google maps right now. It's shortly left of the first point after the photograpy changes from summer to winter.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Rich » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:03 pm

Whoaa - that's spectacular. Nicely done. Think there are other possibilities for multi-picth climbs along that section of coastline?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby buzzard » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:12 pm

wow nice climb man. How many climbed it and how long did it take. always wanted to get over there but quite a hike. Any more pics?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby darrell » Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:21 pm

Hey Matt,

I can't see the pic (juts has the red x). Is it just me?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Scooter » Thu Feb 11, 2010 8:34 am

There is a link that was posted just below that post
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby darrell » Thu Feb 11, 2010 8:43 pm

Hey Matt - Nice climb!
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby jeremy benjamin » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:56 am

Good job on the FFA and FFD's guys. That is a hella lotta ice right thar.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby buzzard » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:42 am

Hey guys anyone going to reply on the amount of time spent climbing this. How long it take to get there? how long for two guys to climb? want to plan a trip over.Anyone really climb it or just scouting it out?no pics of anyone on the wall?come on man give us something.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Danger » Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:30 pm

I'm with buzzard!
I know both of those unreliable pirates, just the folks to scope something out, touch the bottom holds (they have holds in ice climbing, right?!) and then claim the first ascent.
Can't trust no one unless they smear the internet with pictures.

But my real beef with those pirates, after buzzard insuates they bull shitted the FA, they still won't spend the time out of their day to provide him with their hard earned information... they must be hiding something!




well...that oughta stir the pot just 'bout right
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:58 pm

Ahem.
Okey doke, so not totally sure on total commute time from the parking lot, as we kinda fudged it, but figure 2 hours walk. Maybe a little over an hour if you totally had it nailed.
We sent the rig in three hours climbing time. It's a standard route at the grades posted above, so however long it takes you to climb that stuff.
Said we climbed it, and we did. If someone wants to tell me in laymans english how to post photos on here, do so and I'll try to post more photos.
Possibly more ice on that section of coast, but we walked a long way without finding anyting.
How's that?
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Sun Feb 14, 2010 7:36 pm

More pics.
Attachments
IMG_0361.JPG
IMG_0336.JPG
IMG_0325.JPG
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:50 pm

Many thanks to my super awesome girlfriend, who being much more technologically astute than I, was able to figure out this whole photo posting thing. I think I'll just stick to ice climbing.
Thanks hun.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:56 pm

Nice pics. Good job on the route.

For future reference check this out.=> LINK
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby buzzard » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:00 pm

good pics,nice climb will have to check it out
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Fred » Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:12 pm

One question Peck... how many whippers?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: FFA Siren's Song WI5 N III

Postby Matt Peck » Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:08 pm

Not even one buddy!
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