Things that are important...

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Things that are important...

Postby Danger » Tue May 04, 2010 7:21 pm

"Doodz. What happened to the fixed cam above the roof (which is above the fixed red sling) on Dreamberry wine?

It was a little frustrating not to see it as I pulled the roof (well, it's more of a slabby mess....) Luckily, the fall is pretty clean - but WTF? I sure hope you made this decision after leading it without the pre-placed cam. Would’ve been nice to hear about it though?!.

Seb and I put up those fixed pieces up to protect the crux, and make it more like sport climbing.... as per the developing NS ethic. Seb already had his believed FA taken away from him, let's be nice to him and put it back.

Post up, Tua.
:evil:"

- Roger
Ps. Here’s the backgrounder on the route:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5827


Further...
The pirates who recovered the nut on Dover...that belongs to old man Jamie Simpson (which I politely got stuck there for him), and I'm sure he'd love to have it back... don't think I wouldn't threaten the president

Further...
Somewhere in the province of Nova Scotia is a single size 11, Red Anasazi Moccasyns, that is likely of no use to anyone but myself... if you find it out in the nature, and would be so kind, i'd exchange beer for its safe return

Further...
The blue fixed rope over Doin' the Rustle is missing...now it may look to the untrained eye as a stuck rope, but it was precisely jammed between two rocks to create a fixed line for working the route...

Further...
The G-spot is awesome. I don't like to make wild internet based accusations...but between the local bakery, setting on the shores of a lovely flowing river, the beautiful french people everywhere, the plethora of bolts...it's totally the Kamouraska of Nova Scotia. I didn't get scared and poo my pants once, it wasn't like climbing in NS at all. Plus it'll totally stir the pot with the angry NB folks... nice job Sean and Todd (and all the others who may have helped), this will totally go a long way to helping develop rope climbing in NS

That is all...
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby john » Tue May 04, 2010 9:58 pm

Why leave a fixed cam the sling will just rot and be unsafe overtime. Why not place it on lead and not leave fixed garbage or just place a bolt if its safety thats desired. Fixed active pro has no place, a passive nut funked can make sense, but a cam can easily move walk etc. The the next unsuspected smuck clips it when its no good. It can be misleading. If stuff comes out easily enough to remove it, why risk it?
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby chameleon » Wed May 05, 2010 8:02 am

that woger! he's always over we-acting.

moral of the story? "keep it funky"
................. "keep it mediocre"?
.................."keep it weal"?
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby Danger » Wed May 05, 2010 11:31 am

john wrote:Why... a....cam? The sling will just rot and be unsafe overtime. Why not... just place a bolt if its safety thats desired.... active pro has no place....funk can make sense...a cam can easily move walk etc....
stuff comes out easily .... why risk it?


I'm with John... let's just bolt the crack...
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby chameleon » Wed May 05, 2010 12:30 pm

yeah, why wisk it?
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby john » Wed May 05, 2010 4:52 pm

ahahahahahahahhahah - nice it feels like how the media edits text

What I was politely saying was place it on lead if possible and dont be a wanker ;)
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby tracstarr » Mon May 10, 2010 10:08 pm

I'm with John. Don't leave gear like that. If it can be placed, then it's up to the person climbing to pre place or do it while leading. Someone will get hurt. But most would hopefully just assume someone forgot it there and take it out anyway.

I've long agreed with bolting. But if it's been sent on gear then leave it alone. If it's mixed I'd bolt it, but it's not in line with ns ethics.
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby mick » Tue May 11, 2010 8:39 am

Please do not feed the trolls.
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby Scooter » Tue May 11, 2010 8:45 am

Am I the only one who appreciates Rogers humor?
Scott.R
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby Adam » Tue May 11, 2010 8:50 am

Scooter wrote:Am I the only one who appreciates Rogers humor?


if that'd be 'Woger', then no you're not.
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby Scooter » Tue May 11, 2010 9:20 am

Don't be fooled. He is actually really angry. Chameleon has chubby fingers.
Scott.R
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby chameleon » Tue May 11, 2010 10:50 am

Rankers, all of you! :wink:
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Re: Things that are important...

Postby Danger » Tue May 11, 2010 6:46 pm

tracstarr wrote:I'm with John... Don't gear.... Someone will get hurt.

I've long agreed with bolting. ......leave gear alone..... it's...in line with ns ethics.


That makes three for bolting the crack... that's more or less consensus from the entire community.
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